Triumph Herald buyer's guide

Rusty sills mean the Herald is structurally finished.

Herald sills are not structural. The chassis carries the load, so the outriggers, rails and body mounts matter far more than the sills, although rotten sills still need repair.

The swing axle makes every Herald dangerous.

The rear wheels can tuck under in hard cornering, but road tests of the time praised the handling and most drivers never have a problem. Good tyres, sensible driving and, on many cars, a later Spitfire-type swing spring make a clear difference.

Trunnions should be greased like other suspension joints.

The front trunnions are lubricated with EP90 gear oil, not grease. A car greased at these points by a well-meaning owner may have been slowly starved of proper lubrication.

Any open Herald is a factory convertible.

Saloons have been converted with bolt-on roof conversions. A genuine convertible has the correct commission number for the body type, so check it against the club's records.

Chassis

The chassis decides whether a Herald is a good buy. Take a torch, a mat to lie on and a small screwdriver or probe (ask the owner before probing).

• Front and rear outriggers, the arms that reach out from the main rails to support the body: look at the ends at the body mounting points, where rust is common.
• Rear outriggers under the boot floor, where corrosion can reach the radius arm mounts that locate the rear wheels.
• Main chassis rails where they curve up around the differential; this section usually needs fabrication rather than a ready-made panel.
• Area around the rear spring and differential mountings.
• Front rails just behind the front crossmember, where mud and debris collect.
• Every suspension and running gear mounting point for cracks, fresh welding or distortion.
• Body mounts, including those behind the sills that are harder to see.
• The body should be bolted to the chassis with a flexible membrane between them, not welded on.
• Sagging doors or uneven gaps can be a sign of serious corrosion underneath.

Bodywork, tub and bonnet

Rust on the Herald body is easier to find than on many rivals because there are few closed box sections, but it still needs a thorough look.

• Tilt the bonnet and check the lower bonnet corners, wing bottoms, front valance and inner arches for rot, cracks and distortion. Many cars now have glassfibre valances.
• Bonnet support D-plates and the bonnet hinge area for corrosion and damage.
• Bonnet alignment: the front end is hard to line up, and poor fit often follows a body-off rebuild or accident damage.
• A-pillars, especially if the doors drop when opened; repair here is labour-intensive.
• Floorpans and footwells: lift the mats and carpets.
• Door bottoms, inner rear wings, rear wheelarches and the spare wheel well.
• Bulkhead and sills, for both rot and old patch repairs.
• Convertibles: wing bottoms where water runs down the B-pillar, plus floors and trim damaged by leaks.
• Use a magnet to find filler on wings, bonnet and rear tub.

Engine

The four-cylinder engines are robust, but a few checks show whether one has been looked after.

• Crankshaft end float: have someone press the clutch while you watch the front pulley. Noticeable forward movement points to worn thrust washers, and if neglected the crank can damage the block.
• Start from cold if possible and listen for bottom-end rattles that suggest worn bearings.
• Chattering from the top end can mean worn rockers or rocker shaft.
• Blue smoke on the overrun points to valve guides; smoke under power suggests worn piston rings.
• Oil and coolant leaks, plus coolant condition and level.
• Watch the temperature gauge in traffic; the cooling system is adequate rather than generous.
• Ask whether the cylinder head has hardened exhaust valve seats for unleaded fuel.
• Check the engine type suits the claimed model; Spitfire engine swaps are common.

Gearbox and drivetrain

Gearboxes and axles are durable, but age and wear show in predictable ways.

• First gear has no synchromesh, so expect it to need care; second gear synchro often weakens.
• Rumble with the clutch up in neutral that goes when the clutch is pressed suggests layshaft wear.
• Jumping out of gear, especially on the overrun, and crunchy changes.
• Vibration above about 30mph usually points to propshaft universal joints.
• Clunks when pulling away or lifting off suggest a worn differential or driveshaft joints.
• Whines and grumbles from the gearbox mean a rebuild is due.
• If overdrive or a Spitfire gearbox has been fitted, ask what was done and by whom.

Suspension, steering and brakes

The front trunnions and the swing-axle rear are the Herald's best-known talking points.

• Front trunnions: ask for evidence they have been oiled with EP90. Neglect leads to wear, seizure and in the worst case a broken upright and suspension collapse.
• Worn trunnions give vague steering and a clonk over bumps.
• Steering should have no free play. Check for movement at the rack mounts, wear in the column universal joint and worn track-rod ends.
• Rear ride height should look level from side to side and not sag.
• Ask whether a later Spitfire swing spring or aftermarket kit has been fitted to reduce wheel tuck.
• Brakes: early cars have drums all round, so check for leaking wheel cylinders. Front discs were optional on the 1200 and standard on the 12/50 and 13/60.
• Rarely used cars often have sticking brakes.
• Check tyre age as well as tread; old, hard tyres affect the handling of a swing-axle car.

Electrics and instruments

The electrical system is simple, and most faults come down to basics.

• Test every light, indicator, wiper and the horn.
• Intermittent faults usually mean a poor earth, damaged wire or bad connection.
• Check for scorched or heavily taped wiring; replacement looms are available.
• On cars with overdrive, non-engagement is often a wiring or switch fault.

Interior and trim

Trim is well supported for most body styles, but some parts are scarce.

• Wooden dashboards on 1200 and later cars: look for cracked lacquer, delamination or cut holes. Re-veneering is a significant cost.
• 948 cars originally had a dark fibreboard dash, not wood, so a wood dash on a 948 is not original.
• Seat covers, carpets, door cards and headlinings are available, but some original colours are not.
• Coupe and early 948 specific trim parts can be hard to find, so check completeness.
• Convertible hood: check fit around the side windows, as poorly made replacement hoods are common. Originals were vinyl; mohair replacements exist.
• Damp carpets, mould or rust in the footwells point to leaks.
• 12/50: check the fabric sunroof opens, closes and does not leak.

Paperwork and originality

Many Heralds have been modified over the years, which can suit a driver but matters if you want an original car.

• Match the chassis or commission number on the car with the V5C.
• Genuine convertibles carry a commission number identifying the body type (CV); saloons carry DL. Confirm with the TSSC if in doubt.
• Check the engine, gearbox and differential match the claimed model, or that changes are declared.
• Look for invoices covering chassis repairs, body-off restoration and trunnion maintenance.
• MOT history online shows past advisories and mileage records.
• If you are not confident, ask a specialist or a garage to carry out a pre-purchase inspection.

What are the main problems with a Triumph Herald?

Chassis rust, especially the outriggers and the rear rails around the differential; rot in the bonnet, wings and floors; front trunnion wear from poor lubrication; crankshaft end float; and wear in the gearbox and drivetrain joints.

Is a Triumph Herald a good first classic?

Yes, for many people. It is simple, parts are easy to get, the tilting bonnet makes checks easy and club support is strong. Buy the best chassis you can find and keep the trunnions oiled.

Which Herald version should I buy?

The 13/60 is the most practical, with the 1296cc engine and front discs. The convertible is the most sought-after body style. Early 948 cars and the coupe suit those who want originality and are happy with slower performance.

How do I know if a Herald convertible is genuine?

Check the commission number. Factory convertibles carry a CV identifier, while saloons carry DL. Saloons have been converted, so confirm the number with the TSSC if in doubt.

Are Herald sills structural?

No. The chassis carries the load. Rot in the outriggers, rails and body mounts is far more important, although the sills should still be in good condition.

Is the swing-axle rear suspension dangerous?

The rear wheels can tuck under during hard cornering, which can cause oversteer, especially in the wet. Driven sensibly on good tyres the Herald is not a problem, and many cars have a later Spitfire swing spring fitted to reduce the effect.

What are trunnions and why do they matter?

They are the joints at the bottom of each front upright. They must be oiled with EP90, not greased. Neglect causes wear and can lead to failure, so ask for proof of maintenance.