Ford Escort Mk1 and Mk2 buyer's guide

If it has flared arches, quarter bumpers and stripes, it must be a real Mexico or RS.

All of those parts are easy to buy and fit. A genuine AVO car is identified by its bodyshell, its numbers and its documented history, not its appearance. Even the shell features can be added later.

A re-shelled car is always a fake.

Many genuine competition cars have been re-shelled after accidents or rust. A re-shell is not dishonest in itself, but it must be declared, documented and reflected in how the car is described.

The Pinto engine is unreliable.

The Pinto is strong, but its camshaft wears quickly if oil changes have been neglected or the wrong oil used. Service history is the deciding factor.

Escorts are all the same underneath, so any one will do.

The basics are shared, but AVO cars have reinforced strut tops, rear axle radius arms and other changes. A basic car with a big engine fitted, but not the matching gearbox, axle, brakes and suspension, is a different proposition.

Bodywork and structure

Rust is the main enemy. Many panels were not painted on the inside when new, and the structure rots from within. Take a torch, a magnet and something to kneel on.

• Front inner wings and suspension turrets (strut tops): look from under the bonnet and from inside the wheelarches for rot, patches and filler. These carry the front suspension and are the first place to check.
• Chassis legs and front valance: look underneath behind the front bumper for corrosion, plating and signs of crash damage.
• Bulkhead and the base of the windscreen: rust here can let water into the footwells. Look under the scuttle area and at the windscreen corners and A-pillars.
• Sills, inner and outer: press and tap along their length, and use a magnet to find filler.
• Floorpans: lift the carpets and check for damp, rot and patches, particularly in the front footwells.
• Boot floor, spare wheel well and rear valance: common rot areas on both marks, especially on the RS2000.
• Rear suspension mounts, including the leaf spring hangers: these are structural and a safety issue if weakened.
• Wheelarches front and rear, and the front and rear of the outer wings.
• Lowered cars: check the suspension mountings and the panels around them for cracking or distortion.
• Panel gaps: uneven door and bonnet gaps can point to poor accident repair.

Engine

Most cars use the Kent crossflow or the Pinto, both durable when serviced. Twin Cam and BDA engines are specialist territory.

• Kent crossflow: a tapping from the top of the engine usually means worn cam followers.
• Kent crossflow: oil seeping from the rocker cover is common; check also the timing cover and crank seals. Light seepage is normal, heavy loss is not.
• Pinto: top-end rattle or hammering, especially on start-up, suggests a worn camshaft. Ask what oil has been used and how often it was changed.
• Pinto: ask when the cambelt was last changed. With no record, assume it needs doing.
• Blue smoke: on the overrun often suggests worn valve stem seals; under load, worn bores or rings.
• Carburettor: worn single Ford carburettors on ordinary models cause rough running. Many cars now run Weber conversions, and RS2000s often run twin Webers rather than the original single twin-choke.
• Twin Cam and BDA: have a specialist inspect the engine. Ask for rebuild records and check that the engine is the correct type for the car.
• Engine swaps: check the engine number and type against the car's specification and any club records. Larger engines are commonly fitted to lesser models.

Gearbox and drivetrain

The four-speed gearboxes are generally strong. The bigger risk is a modified car with mismatched parts.

• Rumbling in first to third gear points to worn bearings.
• Jumping out of gear, particularly on the overrun, means the gearbox needs an overhaul.
• Grinding on fast changes suggests worn synchromesh.
• Rear axle: listen for whine or clunks, and look for oil leaks around the pinion and half-shafts. Hard-driven cars can have a noisy differential.
• Automatics: shifts should be smooth with no jerking, and the fluid should be bright red, not dark or burnt-smelling.
• Five-speed conversions are a common modification. Note it in your assessment of originality.
• Check that a car with a larger engine also has a suitable gearbox, propshaft and axle.

Suspension, steering and brakes

Simple and robust, but worn bushes and dampers spoil the handling, and modified cars need careful inspection.

• Steering rack: check for play at the steering wheel and for split rack gaiters, which let in grit and cause rapid wear.
• Front clonks: often worn bushes or a broken front coil spring.
• Rear: soggy or bouncy behaviour suggests worn dampers. Leaf springs usually last, but check for sagging or broken leaves.
• Rear axle radius arms: present on Twin Cam, RS and Mexico models. Check their mounts for cracking and rust.
• Brakes: basic cars may have drums all round, others have front discs. Look for leaking wheel cylinders and corroded brake pipes.
• Handbrake: should hold the car on a slope and the ratchet should grip.

Electrics and instruments

Simple systems, but age and decades of modifications take their toll.

• Poor earths and corroded contacts cause flickering lights and intermittent faults.
• Look around the fusebox and behind the dashboard for untidy extra wiring from rally lamps, alarms or stereos.
• Test every light, wiper speed, the heater fan and the horn.

Interior and trim

Interior trim varies by model and is an important part of proving what a car is. Some parts for lesser models are hard to find.

• Check the seats, door cards and headlining are correct for the claimed model. Vinyl and cloth were used on different versions.
• Check the dashboard, instruments and steering wheel. These are often swapped for parts from sportier models.
• Lift the carpets to check for damp and rot in the floors.
• Exterior brightwork, bumpers and badges can be very difficult to source. Pitted chrome is hard to restore.
• Mk2 Ghia: check the wood fascia trim is present and undamaged, as Ghia-specific parts are harder to replace.

Paperwork and originality

On any claimed Twin Cam, RS or Mexico this is the most important section. A good-looking car with doubtful identity is a poor buy.

• Check that the VIN plate, stamped chassis number and engine number agree with the V5C.
• On Mk1 AVO cars, look for the double-skinned strut-top reinforcement, the rear axle radius arm brackets and factory-style flared arches. Remember these can all be added to a standard shell.
• A stamped chassis number at the strut top is rarely still visible on Mk1s, but where present and correct it helps prove originality.
• Ask whether the car has been re-shelled. If so, ask when, by whom, and what happened to the original shell.
• Contact the Ford AVO Owners Club or the Ford RS Owners Club before buying a sporting model. Their registrars can advise on authenticity.
• Check the car's history for theft or write-offs; stolen two-door Escorts have been converted into look-alikes.
• Mk2 RS1800: be especially careful with any car registered after production ended in 1977.
• If anything about the identity is unclear, walk away.

What are the main problems with Mk1 and Mk2 Escorts?

Rust is the main problem, especially in the front inner wings, strut tops, sills, floors, boot floor and rear spring mounts. Mechanically, look for Pinto camshaft wear, Kent cam follower noise, gearbox bearing wear and worn suspension bushes.

How can I tell if an Escort Mexico or RS is genuine?

Check the VIN, stamped numbers and engine number against the V5C. Look for AVO features such as reinforced strut tops and radius arm brackets, but remember these can be copied. Ask for history and contact the Ford AVO Owners Club or Ford RS Owners Club before buying.

Are Mk1 and Mk2 Escorts reliable?

With regular maintenance, the Kent and Pinto engines and the gearboxes are durable. Twin Cam and BDA engines need specialist care. Most problems come from neglect or poor modifications.

Is an Escort a good first classic car?

Yes, ordinary versions are simple, parts are available and specialists are easy to find. Buy the best structure you can and get an expert opinion before buying a sporting model.

Which Escort should I buy?

It depends on your use. A four-door or estate is practical and often more original. A Sport or Ghia offers more performance or comfort. Genuine AVO and RS cars need the most checking. Honest replicas can suit those who want the look and drive without the provenance questions.