MG Midget buyer's guide

Rubber bumper cars are not proper Midgets.

The 1500 is a genuine Midget built for more than five years. It is softer and heavier, but its all-synchromesh gearbox and torquey engine suit modern traffic, and well-kept cars give years of service.

The Mk3 has a Mini Cooper S engine.

The Mk3's 1275cc A-series is related to the Cooper S unit but was built to a different, milder specification and does not have its output.

A new outer sill means the structure is sound.

Outer sills are sometimes fitted over rotten inner sills and floors. The inner sills and the transmission tunnel provide much of the strength, so check from inside and underneath, not just the outside.

Gear whine means the gearbox is finished.

First and reverse are straight-cut on A-series cars, so some whine in those gears is normal. Noise in the other gears, or drone from bearings, is the warning sign.

Bodywork and structure

Body condition matters more than anything else on a Midget. Mechanical and trim parts are cheap by comparison, so buy the best shell you can.

• Outer sills and inner sills along their full length. Lift the carpets and look at the footwells and floor pans from inside, then compare with what you see underneath.
• A-posts, the door hinge panels, are prone to rust and to poor repairs. Look for bubbling, filler and uneven hinge mounting.
• Junction of the front wing and sill: this traps mud and can rot the footwell side panel, sill end and front floor.
• Doors that drag, drop or need slamming can point to bad sill repairs or a body that is flexing. Gaps should be even and doors should open freely.
• Bonnet: it flexes at the hinge and holds water in its reinforcement, so check the leading edge and hinge area. The lower front panel and lower front wings also rust.
• Rear spring mountings: check the spring boxes on early quarter-elliptic cars and the rear spring hangers on later cars, and make sure the car sits level.
• Rear wings and inner arches, especially the double-skinned section behind the rear wing where it meets the boot floor.
• Boot floor, spare wheel well and rear panel, particularly where the floor meets the rear panel.
• Use a magnet for filler on sills, arches and wing bottoms. Uneven panel gaps or a distorted front wheel arch can indicate past accident damage.

Engine

Pre-1974 cars use the BMC A-series, which commonly runs 70,000 to 80,000 miles before needing a rebuild. The Triumph 1500 is torquier but tends to wear its bottom end sooner.

• Check the oil pressure gauge from cold and again when fully warm. Low pressure when hot suggests a worn bottom end.
• A light tapping from the top of an A-series that is louder cold is usually tappet clearance. A deeper rattle or rumble that persists when warm points to bearing wear.
• Blue smoke under acceleration suggests worn bores or rings. Blue smoke on the overrun or after idling suggests valve guides or stem seals.
• White smoke, emulsion under the oil or radiator cap, or signs of overheating can mean a failing head gasket. Short, infrequent use can also cause condensation, so judge it alongside other evidence.
• On the 1500, ask someone to press the clutch while you watch the crankshaft pulley. Forward movement points to worn thrust washers, which can wreck the engine if ignored.
• Listen for rumbling big ends on the 1500, especially when warm and under load.
• Many 1275s have been tuned with bigger valves, cams or different carburettors. Ask what has been done and by whom; poorly matched modifications idle badly and run poorly.

Gearbox and drivetrain

A-series cars have no synchromesh on first gear, and the type of gearbox fitted matters.

• Identify the gearbox: early smooth-case units have fragile cone synchromesh and scarce spares, while the later rib-case boxes are stronger and easier to rebuild.
• Some whine in first and reverse is normal because they are straight-cut. Whine or drone in second, third or top suggests worn gears or bearings.
• Second gear synchromesh is usually the first to wear. Check for baulking or crunching on quick changes from first to second.
• Check whether the car jumps out of gear, especially third, under load or on the overrun.
• The 1500's Marina-based gearbox has synchromesh on all forward gears and is generally robust, but still check for noise and jumping out.
• Listen for a noisy rear axle, and feel for clonks or excess slack when coming on and off the throttle.

Suspension, steering and brakes

The front suspension is the most common MOT failure area, almost always through lack of greasing.

• Each front upright has three to four grease points that need regular attention. Ask how often they are greased; there should be fresh grease visible.
• Jack each front wheel (if allowed) and rock it top to bottom for kingpin and trunnion wear, then side to side for track rod end or wheel bearing play.
• Bounce each corner: the car should settle quickly. Check the dampers for leaks; good replacement rear dampers can be hard to source.
• Look at the rear leaf springs for sagging, splayed or cracked leaves and rust between them. A car that sits low at the back or hops over bumps may have tired or seized springs.
• On early drum-braked cars, check for leaking wheel cylinders. On disc and drum cars, check disc condition and whether the rear drums have been adjusted.
• A pedal that needs pumping can mean a worn master cylinder. Check flexible hoses for cracks and the handbrake cable for corrosion.

Electrics and instruments

Midget electrics are simple, and most faults come from poor earths and tired connectors rather than failed components.

• Test every light, including brake lights, indicators and the number plate lamp.
• Check the speedometer, rev counter, fuel gauge, temperature gauge and oil pressure gauge all work.
• Intermittent faults usually point to corroded bullet connectors or bad earths.
• Look behind the dashboard for added wiring, taped joints and scorched insulation. Replacement looms vary in quality.

Interior, hood and trim

Trim is mostly available, but it changed often between years, so correctness takes research.

• Sit in the car with the hood up before you get serious. Taller drivers can find the seat at the end of its travel.
• Check the hood for tears, a crazed or cloudy rear window, mildew in the folds and a good seal at the screen rail and rear quarters.
• Damp carpets mean leaks, and leaks mean floor and sill rust. Feel under the mats.
• Some original colours, such as Autumn Leaf trim, are hard to source, so a car with tired trim in an unusual colour may be costly to put right.
• Original steering wheels for early cars are hard to find. Check torn vinyl, broken switches and rotten wood trim.

Paperwork and originality

Many Midgets have been rebuilt, modified or assembled from parts of different years. Paperwork helps you understand what you are buying.

• Match the chassis number on the car to the V5C, and check the engine number and its prefix against the claimed model.
• Chassis prefixes indicate the model (GAN1 to GAN5 for chrome bumper Midgets, GAN6 for the 1500). The MG Car Club Midget Register publishes chassis ranges.
• A Heritage Certificate from the British Motor Museum can confirm original specification, colour and build date.
• Check grille, bumpers, rear arches, sidelight position and wheels against the year. Rubber bumper cars converted to chrome are common and conversions vary in quality.
• Ask for photographs and invoices for any bodywork, especially sill and floor repairs, and whether a new British Motor Heritage shell was used.

What are the main problems with an MG Midget?

Rust is the biggest issue, especially the sills, A-posts, floors, rear spring mountings, rear arches and boot floor. Mechanically, look for worn front kingpins from poor greasing, worn second gear synchromesh, and on the 1500, bottom-end and thrust washer wear.

Which MG Midget is best to buy?

It depends on your use. The Mk3 1275 is the most plentiful chrome bumper car and has the robust A-series engine. The 1500 has an all-synchromesh gearbox and is more relaxed at speed. Early Mk1 cars are rarer and more period-correct. Whatever you choose, the body condition matters most.

Is the MG Midget a good first classic?

Yes, for many people. It is simple, light and well supported by parts suppliers and clubs. The cabin is tight, so make sure you fit, and budget for regular maintenance and rust prevention.

Is an MG Midget the same as an Austin-Healey Sprite?

From 1961 to 1971 the Midget and Sprite were essentially the same car with different badges and trim. The Sprite's mark numbers run one ahead of the Midget's. The Sprite ended in 1971, so the 1500 has no Sprite equivalent.

Are MG Midgets reliable?

A well-maintained A-series Midget is a dependable classic. Neglect is the problem: lack of greasing, poor earths and tired engines cause most failures. The 1500's engine needs careful checking of its bottom end.

How do I tell a Midget's version and year?

The chassis number prefix indicates the model, from GAN1 on early cars to GAN6 on the 1500. Body details also help, including sidescreens or wind-up windows, chrome or rubber bumpers, round or square rear arches and the sidelight position.

Are round wheel arch Midgets weaker?

The rounded arches of 1972 to 1974 are popular, but both round and square arch cars are equally prone to rear arch rust. Check the inner arches and the double skin behind the rear wing on any car.