Classic car storage

Winter car storage is more than shutting the door on a car. I would start with a clean, dry vehicle, a suitable building and a plan for the battery, tyres and fuel.

How to prepare a classic car for winter storage

Dry and ventilated beats sealed and damp. Clean and dry the car before putting it away. Check the garage for water ingress and allow air to circulate. Airflow or a suitable dehumidifier can help manage moisture; do not assume a sealed building is a dry one.

Use a lightweight, breathable cover suited to the car. Do not use plastic sheeting as a car cover: choose the breathable option recommended in the storage guidance instead. Check periodically for condensation or mould rather than leaving the car unseen all winter.

How I store my own cars

All five of my cars are garaged, some in a stone garage and some in portable garages, and I use a couple of Carcoon car bubbles when a car needs one (see using an outdoor Carcoon). None of them is left outside overnight, except on the rare occasion I stay over at an event.

Each garage has a dehumidifier that runs pretty much all year, with a heater for when it is needed, and moisture-absorbing bags go inside the cars as well. Every car is covered, summer and winter, to stop condensation settling on it.

I keep the batteries on a trickle charger all year round, unless I know I will be using a car over the next couple of days. Over winter the batteries are disconnected and kept on charge.

The cars are used regularly, but never in the rain and never on salted winter roads. The open cars only come out when it is warm, and I leave their hoods down in storage because I rarely put them up. I check on all of them regularly. They are well protected, but they are used, not just kept.

How to maintain a car battery in storage

Consider a battery conditioner suitable for the battery and the car's electrical system, or disconnect the battery if the handbook allows it. Check polarity and the charger's instructions. Ask your specialist if you are unsure, particularly where disconnection would disable an alarm or other equipment.

Tyres and brakes

Standing in one position for a long time can cause tyre flat spots. Moving the car periodically, where it is safe to do so, changes the loaded part of the tyre. Alternatively, ask your specialist about a storage pressure within the maker's recommended range. Do not guess a pressure, and restore normal running pressures before driving.

For a car securely stored on private land, use suitable wheel chocks before leaving the handbrake off, to reduce the risk of the brakes sticking. Never leave it free to roll. Check the handbook's parking instructions and the ground conditions.

Fuel and ethanol

Filling up before storage is one approach to reducing the air space where condensation can form. Storage advice differs, particularly for a long lay-up, so agree a plan with your club or specialist rather than treating a full tank as a universal rule.

Ask your club about ethanol content and E5 for your older car. Check pump labels and the condition and compatibility of the fuel system. Do not assume that every older car has the same requirements or that stored fuel stays fresh indefinitely.

Rodents and periodic checks

Remove food and rubbish from the car and check the building for rodent entry points. Inspect wiring, hoses and the engine bay before returning to use. If you protect an opening during storage, keep a written reminder and remove the protection before starting the engine.

How often should you drive a car in storage? There is no single answer, but do not rely on briefly starting the engine and letting it idle. If you run the car, use a proper operating cycle appropriate to it, ideally a lawful drive that brings it fully up to temperature. Otherwise follow a planned lay-up routine. Never run an engine in an enclosed garage.

Choosing a classic car storage facility

I would ask these questions before handing over the car:

  • What security, fire detection and water-ingress precautions are in place?
  • How is humidity monitored and controlled?
  • When can I inspect or collect the car, and what notice is needed?
  • Who is responsible for battery care, tyres and any engine running?
  • What insurance applies, and what must my own policy cover?

Get the agreed responsibilities in writing. A storage facility's cover and your own insurance are not necessarily the same thing.

Going deeper

The Triumph Stag archive covers this in more detail, and the advice there applies to most classics: choosing a dehumidifier, the lay-up checklist, spring recommissioning and mice and rats.

SORN, historic tax and insurance

A car kept off the public road and not taxed needs a SORN. An uninsured car kept off the road also needs one. Keep a SORN vehicle on private land, not on a public road. The notification does not transfer when the keeper changes.

Historic tax class means there is nothing to pay, but you must still tax the car if you are keeping it taxed rather than making a SORN. See the historic tax and MOT guide. Do not confuse tax status with insurance: check that your policy covers the storage arrangement and any movement or return to road use.

Questions people ask

What is the best place for classic car storage?

A dry, secure, ventilated space is a better starting point than a sealed, damp building. Check for leaks, humidity and rodent access. The right solution depends on the car, the building and how long it will be stored.

Should I disconnect the battery for long-term storage?

A suitable battery conditioner or disconnecting the battery can be options. Follow the handbook and charger instructions, checking battery type, electrical polarity and whether disconnection affects an alarm or other equipment.

Does a stored classic car need a SORN?

If it is untaxed and kept off the public road, make a SORN. A SORN is also needed when the vehicle is uninsured and off the road. Historic tax exemption does not itself remove the need to tax the vehicle or make a SORN.

What should I ask a classic car storage facility?

Ask about security, fire precautions, water ingress and humidity, access and collection arrangements, battery and tyre care, and insurance. Get the responsibilities in writing and confirm the arrangements with your insurer.

Sources: GOV.UK: make a SORN; GOV.UK: when a SORN is needed; GOV.UK: historic vehicles; FBHVC: fuels; Winter storage checklist; Secure storage, covers and tyre care; Laying up a car; Maintaining an unused car; Storage and insurance precautions.

Checked 19 October 2026

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