Peugeot 205 GTI buyer's guide

The 1.9 is always the better car.

The 1.9 has more torque, longer gearing and rear discs, but many owners prefer the 1.6's eagerness to rev. Condition and originality matter more than engine size.

A 205 GTI will spin you off the road if you lift off the throttle mid-corner.

The car tightens its line when you lift off, but its reputation owes much to worn rear axle bearings, poor tyres and bad modifications. A healthy car on good tyres is predictable.

Red carpets, GTI badges and the right wheels mean it is a GTI.

Badges, bumpers, wheels and interiors are easy to swap. Check the identification plate, stamped number, engine type and brakes.

These cars do not rust.

Partial galvanising helps, but the sills, sill to rear wing seam, inner wings, bulkhead, floor ahead of the fuel tank and boot floor all rust.

Bodywork and structure

Structure separates good cars from bad. The panels are thin, so look for accident damage as well as rust. Take a torch, a magnet and a mat.

• The seam where the sill meets the rear wing, and the quarter panel just ahead of the rear wheelarch, where bubbling paint is an early sign of rust.
• Both ends of the sills and the base of the B-pillars, where repairs are common and not always well done.
• Inner wings, front chassis legs and the bulkhead, especially where they join.
• The panel behind and around the headlamps: rust or distortion here can also point to a front-end accident.
• The driver's footwell near the brake master cylinder, where spilt brake fluid lets rust through.
• The floor in front of the fuel tank and under the rear seat, and the brake pipes running through it.
• The boot floor and rear bumper mounts, which trap mud. A loose rear bumper suggests corroded mounts.
• Accident repair: creased metal around the fuel filler flap, uneven shut lines and overspray on window rubbers. Thin panels also mean dents along the flanks.
• Door bottoms, wheelarches and, on sunroof cars, damp in the rear from blocked drains.

Engine

The XU engines are strong when serviced but suffer from neglect, poor coolant and amateur tuning. Ask for a cold start.

• Blue smoke on start-up or when warm usually means worn valve stem seals or guides, a common GTI trait.
• Creamy residue under the oil filler, coolant loss or overheating can point to head gasket failure, more often seen on the 1.9.
• Ask what coolant has been used; the wrong mix can damage the aluminium block.
• Oil dripping between engine and gearbox suggests a leaking rear main seal.
• Ask when the cambelt, tensioner and water pump were changed and look for a receipt. Several guides advise about every four years whatever the mileage.
• A high or hunting idle can mean an air leak or a worn or adjusted airflow meter. Some low-speed throttle snatch is a known trait.
• Listen for main bearing rumble, knocks on the overrun and rattles when revving.
• Note non-standard parts: induction kits, chipped ECUs, exhausts or a 16-valve engine swap. These should be declared.

Gearbox and drivetrain

The five-speed gearbox is durable, but many cars have done high mileages with keen drivers.

• On the BE1, fitted until 1989, reverse sits next to first; on the later BE3 it sits opposite fifth. The box should suit the car's date.
• Crunching into second or third points to worn synchromesh.
• A vague gearchange usually comes from worn linkage bushes, a common and modest fix.
• A gearbox rumble can mean bearing wear, often caused by low oil level.
• Check the clutch for slip and judder; a heavy pedal can mean a tired cable.
• Driveline snatch can come from worn or corroded engine mounts. Check CV gaiters for splits.

Suspension, steering and brakes

Worn suspension changes how a 205 GTI drives more than almost anything else.

• Stand behind the car: rear wheels leaning in at the top (excessive negative camber) mean worn or seized rear trailing arm bearings.
• Rock the rear wheels for play, another sign of rear axle wear. Rebuilding the rear axle is a significant job.
• Front knocks and creaks usually come from anti-roll bar drop links, wishbone bushes, lower ball joints or strut top mounts.
• Pulling one way under power or when lifting off can point to worn front wishbone bushes.
• Ask whether replacement bushes are genuine Peugeot parts, as soft aftermarket items affect handling.
• Lowered cars: check the work is professional and the ride height even.
• On a 1.9, check the rear discs and calipers for corrosion and test the handbrake, which is often poor.
• Check power steering pumps and pipes for leaks, and every alloy wheel for kerb damage.

Electrics and instruments

Most faults come from corroded connections rather than failed parts.

• Work every switch: lights, indicators, wipers, heater fan, heated rear window and horn.
• Test central locking and electric windows if fitted; central locking faults are common.
• Check all instruments read sensibly and the heater controls move freely.
• The sliding sunroof seals using vacuum from a tank under the bonnet. Check it seals when closed.
• Look for amateur wiring around aftermarket stereos and alarms.
• Cars kept outside often have several intermittent faults from corroded connections.

Interior and trim

Interior parts are among the hardest things to find, so a complete, correct interior is a real asset.

• The driver's outer seat bolster often collapses. A trimmer can repair it, but correct fabric is hard to find.
• On the 1.9, check the half-leather seats for cracking, shrinking and open stitching, and all seat frames for broken welds.
• Make sure the dashboard and trim match the phase. Some early cars have later dashboards, and limited edition leather has been fitted to other cars.
• Speaker holes cut in the parcel shelf and door trims are a common sign of aftermarket stereos.
• Brittle, cracked or missing plastic trim will be hard to replace.
• Damp carpets point to leaks from the windscreen, door seals, sunroof or CTI hood.

Paperwork, originality and proving a genuine GTI

A 205 GTI is easy to fake, so checking identity matters as much as checking condition.

• Find the identification plate riveted under the bonnet behind the right-hand suspension strut, and the number stamped into the bulkhead edge above it. Both should match each other and the V5C.
• Look for signs the plate has been replaced or the stamped area repaired or repainted more than the panels around it.
• Check the engine type code on the tag riveted to the block at the timing belt end; the 130bhp 1.9 carries D6B. A club or specialist can confirm whether the code fits the claimed car.
• A 1.9 has a spacer between block and sump for its longer stroke and should have rear discs. A 1.6 on 15in wheels is a common swap.
• On a 1.9, check the maker's name inside each wheel: Speedline and the heavier SMR look alike, and all four should match.
• The gearbox, dashboard, lights and interior should all be consistent with the date on the V5C.
• For a 1FM, Gentry or limited edition, ask for provenance and supporting paperwork. A 1FM should have its numbered brass plaque.
• Check the online MOT history for gaps and mileage inconsistencies, and check for insurance write-off history.
• Ask for receipts for structural, cambelt, rear axle and engine work, and a dated list of modifications.

What are the common problems with a Peugeot 205 GTI?

Rust at the sill to rear wing seam, inner wings, bulkhead and floors; worn rear axle bearings and front bushes; valve stem seal smoke; head gasket trouble, more often on the 1.9; worn synchromesh; corroded connections and collapsed seat bolsters.

Should I buy a 1.6 or a 1.9 205 GTI?

The 1.9 has more torque, longer gearing and rear disc brakes. The 1.6 revs more freely and many people prefer its feel. Both are good cars, so buy the best, most original example you can find rather than choosing on engine size alone.

How can I tell if a 205 GTI is genuine?

Check the identification plate behind the right-hand strut and the number stamped above it against the V5C, then the engine tag, the sump spacer and rear discs on a 1.9, the wheels and the trim. A club or specialist can help.

What are Phase 1, Phase 1.5 and Phase 2?

Enthusiast names for the main stages. Phase 1 cars have slider heater controls and orange front indicators. Phase 1.5, from the 1988 model year, has a new dashboard with rotary heater controls. Phase 2, from 1990, has clear front indicators, smoked rear lights and darker interior plastics.

Is a 205 Gentry or Rallye a GTI?

No. The Gentry is a luxury 1.9 automatic with GTI-style body trim, and the Rallye is a lightweight 1.3 litre carburettor model. Both are related to the GTI and share some parts, but neither is a GTI.

What is the 205 CTI?

The cabriolet version, with its body built by Pininfarina and reinforced to make up for the lack of a roof. It shares the GTI's engines but is heavier and softer. Check the hood and look for water leaks, which lead to rust.

Is the 205 GTI a good first classic?

It can be, if you buy carefully. It is simple, light and parts are mostly available. The risks are hidden accident damage, rust, rear axle wear and fakes, so have a specialist inspect a car before you buy if you are unsure.