Austin-Healey Sprite buyer's guide

Any car that looks like a Frogeye is a Frogeye.

Glassfibre replicas were built in the 1980s and 1990s, and kits can make a Midget or later Sprite look like one. A genuine car has an AN5 chassis number, a Frogeye body structure with quarter-elliptic rear spring boxes, and no boot lid aperture in the rear panel.

A glassfibre bonnet makes no difference.

The bonnet is not structural, so a glassfibre one does not weaken the car, but buyers seeking originality expect steel. Club and magazine guides note that a glassfibre front end usually reduces a Frogeye's appeal. Check which you are buying.

The Mk4 has a Mini Cooper S engine.

The Mk4's 1275cc A-series is related to the Cooper S unit but was built to a milder specification with less power.

A later engine ruins a Sprite.

Swaps to 1098cc or 1275cc engines are common and widely accepted on driving cars. An original engine matters mainly to originality enthusiasts.

Genuine Frogeye or not

Frogeyes are the most wanted Sprites, so replicas and conversions exist. Confirm the car's identity first.

• Chassis number: a genuine Frogeye carries an AN5 prefix (AN5-L for left-hand drive). The number should match the V5C. A Mk2 to Mk4 Sprite starts HAN, and a Midget starts GAN.
• Ask for a Heritage Certificate from the British Motor Museum, which holds Abingdon records for Austin-Healey cars and can confirm build date, original colour and engine number.
• Look at the rear deck behind the seats. A genuine Frogeye has no boot lid, and there should be no sign of a filled-in or cut-down boot opening in the rear panel. A Midget-based conversion needs the rear panels cut and the boot floor shortened.
• Look inside the boot area through the seat backs: a Frogeye has quarter-elliptic rear springs running forward into spring boxes behind the seats. Semi-elliptic springs with a front hanger under the floor suggest a 1964 or later shell.
• Check the doors: no exterior handles and sidescreens are correct for a Frogeye. Doors with wind-up windows or quarter-lights point to a later car.
• Glassfibre rear bodywork, a separate tubular chassis under the body, or a later Triumph 1500 engine indicate a replica or kit car rather than a factory Frogeye.
• Be wary of a V5C showing a first registration after 1961 or describing the car as an MG Midget.

Bodywork and structure

Every Sprite is a monocoque, so rust and poor repairs are the biggest risk. Take a torch, a magnet and a mat to lie on.

• Sills: the inner and outer sills carry much of the strength. Feel the inner sill for soft or holed metal from inside, and look for new outer sills welded over rotten inner ones.
• Frogeye and early Mk2 rear spring boxes: this is the single most important check on a quarter-elliptic car. A gap of less than about three inches between the top of the rear tyre and the arch can mean the spring boxes have collapsed.
• The rear bulkhead behind the seats and the radius arm mountings, which locate the rear axle on early cars and are known rust traps.
• Floors and footwells: lift the mats or carpets. Hood leaks rot the floor, and brake fluid leaks can strip paint and cause holes in the footwell.
• Front bulkhead, especially around the heater, battery tray and master cylinder, plus the inner wings, engine mountings and radiator crossmember.
• A-posts and door hinge areas. Doors that sag or catch can mean worn hinges or rust at the hinge mountings.
• Later cars: the box section above the back of the sill over the rear arch, the rear spring hangers on semi-elliptic cars, the boot floor and spare wheel well.

Engine

The A-series is durable, but most original engines have been rebuilt or replaced. Ask what is fitted.

• Oil pressure: a healthy warm engine should show around 60psi at 4,000rpm. Readings below about 40psi when warm need explaining.
• A rumble under acceleration points to worn main or big end bearings. Timing chain or valve gear clatter often follows neglected oil changes.
• Head gasket failure happens. Look for coolant in the oil, mayonnaise on the dipstick or filler cap, and oil in the coolant, though short use can also cause condensation.
• On unleaded fuel, original cylinder heads can suffer valve seat recession. Ask whether a head with hardened seats has been fitted.
• Many cars have later 1098cc or 1275cc engines or tuning parts. Ask for details of the work and who did it, and listen for poor idling from mismatched modifications.

Gearbox and drivetrain

All Sprites have four speeds and no synchromesh on first. Gearbox type and condition vary a great deal.

• Early cars have a smooth-case gearbox with weaker synchromesh; the ribbed-case box from the Mk3 is stronger, and many earlier cars have been fitted with one. Ask which is in the car.
• Second gear synchromesh is usually the first to wear. Check for crunching on quick changes from first to second.
• Check for jumping out of gear on the overrun and under load.
• A knock from the rear can mean worn half-shaft splines. Half-shaft breakage is a known problem, especially with larger, more powerful engines.
• Check the rear axle for oil leaks and listen for whine or clonks when coming on and off the throttle.

Suspension, steering and brakes

The front suspension needs regular greasing, so wear here shows how well a car has been looked after.

• Each front upright has several grease points that need regular attention with heavy oil or waterproof grease. Look for fresh grease.
• If allowed, raise each front wheel and rock it top to bottom and side to side to feel for kingpin, wheel bearing and track rod end wear. Stiff steering often means lack of lubrication.
• Lever arm dampers should not leak. A bouncy, wallowing ride suggests worn dampers or tired springs; telescopic conversions are common.
• Rear springs can rust, fracture or seize. On a quarter-elliptic car this makes the tail more likely to hop or step out over bumps.
• Frogeye and early Mk2 cars have drums all round. They work when maintained, but check for leaking wheel cylinders, pulling and squeal. Many have been converted to front discs from a later Sprite or Midget.

Electrics and instruments

Sprite electrics are basic, and most faults come from poor earths, tired connectors and old wiring.

• Test every light, the indicators, horn, wipers and the heater fan if fitted. On the Frogeye a heater was an extra-cost option, so a car may not have one.
• Check the speedometer, rev counter, oil pressure, temperature and fuel gauges all work.
• Look behind the dashboard and in the engine bay for brittle or scorched wiring, taped joints and amateur additions.
• Intermittent faults usually point to corroded connectors or bad earths.
• Ask whether the car has been converted to negative earth, or has alternator or electronic ignition upgrades.

Interior, hood and trim

Trim is simple and mostly available, but correct details for each year matter to originality.

• Frogeyes came with rubber floor mats, which were often replaced with carpet. Original rubber mats are now rare.
• Sit in the car with the hood up. Check the hood fabric, rear window and fit, and on Frogeye and Mk2 cars the condition and fit of the sidescreens.
• Damp carpets or mats mean leaks, and leaks mean floor and sill rust.
• Seats, dashboard and steering wheel should suit the year. Later seats with headrests or modern instruments are easy to spot on an early car.
• Check the windscreen frame for corrosion and the seals for leaks.

Paperwork and originality

With so many restorations and conversions, the paperwork is part of the car.

• Match the chassis number on the car to the V5C and check the prefix suits the claimed model: AN5, HAN6 to HAN10, or AAN10 for the Austin Sprite.
• Ask for invoices and photographs of structural work, especially sills, floors and rear spring boxes, and who carried it out.
• Check that grille, bumpers, wheels, windows and badges suit the year. Badges are easy to change, so a claimed Austin Sprite or facelift car must have the matching chassis prefix.
• Note upgrades such as disc brakes, ribbed-case gearboxes, telescopic dampers, different carburettors and larger engines. They are common and often welcome, but they should be declared.
• For a replica or conversion, the V5C and history file should describe the car honestly.

How can I tell if a Frogeye Sprite is genuine?

Check the chassis number starts AN5 and matches the V5C, and ask for a Heritage Certificate. Look for quarter-elliptic rear springs in boxes behind the seats, no boot lid or filled-in boot opening, no exterior door handles, a steel monocoque with no separate chassis, and a registration date between 1958 and 1961.

Where do Sprites rust?

The sills, floors, front and rear bulkheads, A-posts, inner wings, lower wings, door bottoms, wheel arches and boot floor. On Frogeyes and early Mk2s, the rear spring boxes are the most important area to check.

What is the difference between a Sprite and an MG Midget?

From 1961 to 1971 they were the same car with different badges and trim, with Sprite mark numbers one ahead (Sprite Mk3 equals Midget Mk2). The Frogeye has no Midget equivalent.

Which Sprite is best to buy?

The Frogeye has the character and following. The Mk3 and Mk4 have wind-up windows and a better ride, and the Mk4 adds the 1275cc engine and a folding hood. Whichever you choose, body condition matters most.

Is a glassfibre bonnet a problem on a Frogeye?

Not structurally, because the bonnet does not carry load. It does affect originality, and buyers seeking a correct car expect steel. Use a magnet to check, and expect a seller to state which is fitted.

Is a Sprite a good first classic?

For many people, yes. It is simple, light and well supported. Make sure you fit in the cabin, budget for regular greasing, and have the structure inspected if unsure.

What is an Austin Sprite?

The last version of the Sprite, built from January to July 1971 after the agreement with Donald Healey ended. It is mechanically a Mk4 with Austin badges, and only 1,022 were made. A genuine car has an AAN10 chassis prefix.