Subaru Impreza Turbo, WRX and STI buyer's guide

Japanese imports are always more desirable because they have more power.

Imports have more power, but UK-supplied cars, and especially the UK special editions, are often preferred by buyers because their history and identity are easier to establish. An import can be a fine car, but it needs more checking.

A car with STi badges, gold wheels and a big wing is an STi.

All of these can be bolted on. A genuine STi has the correct model code, six-speed gearbox on second generation cars, and specific seats, instruments and brakes. Check the chassis plate and V5C.

Impreza engines are fragile.

Specialists regard the standard 2.0-litre engine as tough when serviced with good oil and the correct cambelt intervals. Most failures follow poor maintenance, low-grade fuel or tuning that adds boost without the right fuelling.

Rust on an Impreza is only cosmetic.

The rear strut turrets carry suspension loads. Corrosion there is structural, and patch repairs often fail. A proper repair means cutting out and replacing the turret.

Bodywork and structure

Rust and accident damage are the two biggest risks. Take a torch, a magnet and a mat, and look from inside the boot as well as underneath.

• Rear strut turrets: the most serious rust area. Check from inside the boot and from the wheel arches for bubbling, sealant that has lifted and patch repairs. A proper fix involves removing the outer wing and replacing the turret.
• Rear wheel arches and the lower rear wings, especially on cars that have lived outside.
• Sills, particularly the rear ends, and on later cars the sections hidden behind plastic sill trims.
• Rear screen surround on first generation cars, which can rot under the seal.
• Front radiator support panel and, on UK second generation cars, the front C-subframe, which both rot.
• Hawk-eye cars: look behind the plastic undertrays, where rust can hide.
• Front chassis legs: these are designed to crumple, so look for kinks, ripples, fresh welding or clamp marks under the front of the car.
• Uneven panel gaps, especially between bonnet, wings and headlamps, mismatched paint, overspray on rubbers and missing badges or trim all point to crash repair.

Engine

A cold start tells you most. Ask the seller not to run the engine before you arrive, and check the oil before it starts.

• Knocking from cold that fades as the engine warms is usually piston slap. A knock that stays when warm or grows under load can mean worn bearings or piston damage.
• Blue smoke on start-up or on the overrun suggests worn rings, valve stem seals or turbocharger seals.
• Ask for, or arrange, a compression test. Cracked ringlands, from detonation or poor tuning, show up as low compression on one cylinder.
• Oil leaks from the cam covers are very common and can drip onto the exhaust and cause smoke and a burning smell. Check the sump area too.
• Coolant should be clean, with no oil in it and no bubbling in the expansion tank, which can indicate head gasket trouble.
• Cambelt: specialists advise replacement at around 45,000 miles or three years on first generation cars. Ask for receipts with dates and mileages; these are interference engines.
• Oil changes: look for frequent changes with fully synthetic oil in the service history, more often on tuned or track cars.
• 2.5-litre hawk-eye engines have a weaker reputation than the 2.0 for ringland and head gasket problems, so a compression test and specialist inspection are especially worthwhile.

Gearbox and drivetrain

The drivetrain is strong at standard power but tuned cars put it under extra strain. Test everything warm and under load.

• Five-speed gearbox jumping out of fifth: a known fault, often linked to a nut at the rear of the gearbox. Note it as a negotiating point.
• Notchy or baulking changes are common on hard-driven cars. Crunching into second or third suggests worn synchromesh, especially on tuned cars.
• Clutch: check for slip in a high gear under load, judder when pulling away and a high biting point. Tuned cars wear clutches quickly.
• Rear differential: a faint hum is normal, a loud whine or howl under steady throttle is not. Listen when reversing too, and check for oil leaks.
• Listen for clunks from the centre viscous coupling and rear differential when turning tightly or taking up drive.
• On second generation STis with DCCD, try the controls and check that the dash display responds.

Suspension, steering and brakes

Most cars have had suspension changes at some point. Find out what is fitted and whether it suits road use.

• Identify the springs, dampers and any coilovers fitted. Very low or stiff set-ups can make the car unpleasant on British roads.
• Second generation rear struts can stick as the damper rod seal dries out, giving a harsh, jiggly ride.
• Clonks over bumps often come from worn suspension or anti-roll bar bushes; polyurethane replacements are common.
• Uneven tyre wear suggests poor alignment, worn bushes or past accident damage.
• Brake calipers can seize, particularly the single-piston rear calipers on early cars and on cars left standing. Watch for pulling and a hot wheel after a drive.
• Look for scored, cracked or warped discs, which cause judder or a shimmy through the steering under braking.

Electrics and instruments

Factory electrics are generally sound. Most problems come from later security, audio and tuning additions.

• Look behind the dashboard and in the footwells for spliced wiring from aftermarket alarms, immobilisers, stereos and boost gauges.
• Check that the approved alarm, immobiliser and any tracker work, and ask whether the tracker subscription can be transferred.
• STi Type UK cars: check the intercooler water spray and the over-rev warning buzzer work.
• Check that electric windows, central locking, heater fan and air conditioning, where fitted, all work.
• On imports, check that the speedometer reads in miles per hour and that the conversion is neat.

Interior and trim

The hard plastics wear well, so a worn or damaged cabin often tells you how the car has been used.

• Seat bolster wear is normal; ripped trim, a loose gear knob and squeaks or rattles on a standard car suggest a hard life.
• Holes in the dashboard or trim from old alarms, immobilisers and gauges are common.
• Check that special edition seats, trim and graphics are present and correct, as they are hard to replace.
• Second generation STi interiors should have STi seats, instruments and steering wheel. Missing or mixed parts can indicate a converted WRX.
• Look for damp carpets and water in the boot, which can come from failed seals or past rear-end damage.

Paperwork and originality

With so many modified, imported and repaired cars about, documents are as important as the metal.

• Check the chassis number on the car against the V5C, and the model code on the chassis plate against the claimed version. On second generation cars the code identifies an STi and a six-speed gearbox.
• Run a history check for unpaid finance, insurance write-off categories, theft and recorded mileage.
• For an import, ask for the import and registration papers and any evidence of mileage from Japan. Falsified mileages are a known problem, so compare old MOT records with the odometer.
• Ask for a full service history with stamped dates, cambelt receipts and oil change records.
• For any modification, ask who did the work and whether there is a rolling road printout. Claimed power figures often do not match measured ones.
• For a UK special edition, check the numbered plaque, specification and any supporting dealer or Prodrive paperwork. For a 22B, confirm identity from the chassis number and documents.

Where do Subaru Imprezas rust?

The rear strut turrets are the main concern, followed by the rear wheel arches, the sills, the rear screen surround on first generation cars, the front radiator support panel and, on UK second generation cars, the front C-subframe. On hawk-eye cars, check behind the plastic undertrays.

What is the difference between an Impreza Turbo, WRX and STi?

The Turbo 2000 was the UK first generation model with 208bhp at launch. WRX was the Japanese name for the first generation and the UK name for the second. STi cars were higher performance versions developed by Subaru Tecnica International, with more power and uprated running gear.

How do I tell a real STi from a WRX?

Check the model code on the chassis plate and the V5C. A genuine second generation STi has a six-speed gearbox and specific seats, instruments and brakes. Badges, wheels and spoilers prove nothing on their own.

Is a Japanese import Impreza worth buying?

It can be, but it needs extra checks. Confirm the chassis code and version, ask for import papers and any mileage evidence, and remember that some import-only parts and trim can be harder to source.

Are Impreza engines reliable?

The standard 2.0-litre engine is durable when it has had frequent oil changes, good fuel and cambelts on time. Problems usually follow neglect or poor tuning. The 2.5-litre engine of the last cars has a weaker reputation for ringland and head gasket problems.

How do I spot a crashed Impreza?

Look for uneven panel gaps, mismatched paint, overspray, kinked or repaired front chassis legs and badly fitted headlamps. Run a history check for write-off categories and ask for repair receipts.

Which Impreza should I buy?

That depends on use. A standard or lightly modified UK Turbo or WRX with full history is a sound choice for driving. Collectors usually look at the UK special editions such as the P1, RB5 and Series McRae, or a well documented STi Type UK.