Rolls-Royce Silver Shadow and Bentley T buyer's guide

The Rolls-Royce Silver Shadow, and its Bentley T Series twin, was the first Crewe car built without a separate chassis. Launched in 1965, it brought a steel monocoque body, disc brakes all round, independent suspension with self-levelling and a high pressure hydraulic system developed under licence from Citroen. It became the best selling Rolls-Royce of its time, which is why so many survive today.

People buy Shadows for the quiet, the ride, the craftsmanship of the leather and wood cabin and the sense of occasion that still comes with the grille. The catch is well known: a car that cost a great deal to build costs a great deal to keep right, and the market is full of tired cars that have had years of minimum spend. Buying the right one matters far more than buying a cheap one.

This guide is for anyone looking at a Shadow, Shadow II, long wheelbase car or Bentley T from a dealer, a private seller or an auction house such as Mathewsons in North Yorkshire. It concentrates on what to check, which versions differ in ways that matter, and how to sell one well. It does not cover repairs or values.

By Jon Cosson · Checked 20 October 2026

At a glance

Built	1965 to 1980 (Silver Shadow, Shadow II, Bentley T and T2)
Maker	Rolls-Royce Motors, Crewe
Numbers made	More than 40,000 Shadow family cars including derivatives; Bentleys far fewer
Construction	Steel monocoque with aluminium doors, bonnet and boot lid; front and rear subframes
Body styles	Four door saloon, long wheelbase saloon; two door saloon and convertible (Corniche from 1971)
Engines	Rolls-Royce aluminium V8, 6,230cc to 1969, then 6,750cc
Gearbox	Automatic only: four speed on early home market cars, GM three speed from 1968
Brakes and suspension	High pressure hydraulics licensed from Citroen, discs all round, rear self-levelling
Hydraulic fluid	RR363 on all Shadow I and II and T1 and T2 cars
Successor	Silver Spirit and Bentley Mulsanne, 1980
Typical use	Touring, club events, occasions, comfortable weekend use
Clubs	Rolls-Royce Enthusiasts' Club; Bentley Drivers Club

The Rolls-Royce Silver Shadow and Bentley T Series in brief

The Silver Shadow replaced the Silver Cloud in 1965 after around a decade of development. It was a radical car for Crewe: unitary construction, all independent suspension, disc brakes at each corner and a hydraulic system, based on Citroen technology, that powered the brakes and the self-levelling. The front and rear suspension were carried on subframes insulated from the body to keep road noise out of the cabin. A Bentley T Series version, identical apart from the grille, badges and bonnet shape, was sold alongside it in much smaller numbers.

The 6,230cc V8 carried over from the Cloud. Early home market cars used a four speed automatic while export cars had the GM three speed unit; from 1968 the three speed was fitted to all cars. Around 1970 the engine was enlarged to 6,750cc by lengthening the stroke. The very earliest cars had self-levelling at both ends, but the front levelling was deleted in 1969, leaving the rear system to do the work.

Mulliner Park Ward built a two door saloon from 1966 and a convertible from 1967. In 1971 these became the Corniche, which went on to have its own long life. A long wheelbase saloon, with extra room in the rear doors and floor, was offered from 1969. In 1974 the suspension was revised, with a wider track, fatter tyres and flared wheelarches.

The Silver Shadow II and Bentley T2 arrived in 1977. The visible changes were rubber faced bumpers, a small front spoiler and a reorganised dashboard. The more important ones were underneath: rack and pinion steering in place of the earlier recirculating ball box, and revised front suspension. The long wheelbase car was renamed Silver Wraith II. Climate control with separate upper and lower settings had already been adopted on later first series cars.

The saloons were replaced by the Silver Spirit and Bentley Mulsanne in 1980. These are different cars, with a new body and a mineral oil hydraulic system, and they are not covered in depth here. For a Shadow buyer the key point is never to confuse the two fluid systems, because the wrong fluid destroys the rubber seals.

Versions to know

Version	Years	What to know
Silver Shadow and Bentley T (early)	1965 to 1969	6,230cc V8. Four speed automatic on UK cars until 1968. Front and rear self-levelling on the earliest cars. Rear main oil seal leaks are a known trait of this engine.
Silver Shadow and Bentley T (6.75 litre)	1970 to 1976	6,750cc V8 with more torque and the durable GM three speed. From 1974 a wider track and flared arches. The bulk of first series cars on the market.
Long wheelbase saloon	1969 to 1976	Longer rear doors and more rear legroom. Rolls-Royce badged. Many have a vinyl covered roof, which needs checking for rust underneath.
Two door saloon and convertible	1966 to 1971	Built by Mulliner Park Ward, renamed Corniche in 1971. Structure, hood and trim differ from the saloon, so inspect with a specialist who knows these cars.
Silver Shadow II and Bentley T2	1977 to 1980	Rubber faced bumpers, front spoiler, new dashboard, rack and pinion steering and revised suspension. Sharper to drive. More servos and motors in the climate system to check.
Silver Wraith II	1977 to 1980	Long wheelbase Shadow II. Same checks as the Shadow II, plus any vinyl roof covering and rear compartment equipment.
Silver Spirit (successor)	1980 onwards	A separate model with a new body and a mineral oil hydraulic system. Never top up or service with RR363. Needs its own guide.

Pros and cons

Pros	Cons
Exceptional refinement and ride comfort for a car of its age Durable V8 that can cover very high mileages when serviced properly The GM three speed automatic fitted from 1968 is strong and well understood Large surviving population means good choice and a deep parts supply Established UK specialists and parts suppliers for every system Hand finished leather and wood cabin that can be restored to a high standard Shadow II steering and suspension make it noticeably better to drive	Running costs are high in every area: fuel, servicing, parts and labour The monocoque has several rust traps and body repair to a proper standard is costly High pressure hydraulics need specialist care and fail expensively when neglected Many cars have had years of deferred maintenance hidden behind shiny paint Interior retrimming, veneer work and chrome are all specialist and costly Climate control and electric features add complexity, especially on the Shadow II Not suited to infrequent use; hydraulics and seals suffer when cars stand

Pros

Cons

Exceptional refinement and ride comfort for a car of its age
Durable V8 that can cover very high mileages when serviced properly
The GM three speed automatic fitted from 1968 is strong and well understood
Large surviving population means good choice and a deep parts supply
Established UK specialists and parts suppliers for every system
Hand finished leather and wood cabin that can be restored to a high standard
Shadow II steering and suspension make it noticeably better to drive

Running costs are high in every area: fuel, servicing, parts and labour
The monocoque has several rust traps and body repair to a proper standard is costly
High pressure hydraulics need specialist care and fail expensively when neglected
Many cars have had years of deferred maintenance hidden behind shiny paint
Interior retrimming, veneer work and chrome are all specialist and costly
Climate control and electric features add complexity, especially on the Shadow II
Not suited to infrequent use; hydraulics and seals suffer when cars stand

Myths and realities

Low mileage means a good car.

A Shadow that has stood for years can need more work than one used regularly. Seals, hydraulics and the cooling system deteriorate with time, so history and condition count for more than the odometer.

The engine is the weak point.

The V8 is generally durable if serviced and kept on the correct antifreeze. The body structure and the hydraulic system are usually where the serious money goes.

Any brake fluid will do.

Shadows use RR363. Mineral oil in an RR363 system, or RR363 in a mineral oil system, damages the rubber seals and can lead to brake failure and a near complete strip of the system.

The Shadow II is just a cosmetic facelift.

Rack and pinion steering and revised suspension change how the car drives, and the dashboard and climate control were reworked.

A cheap Shadow is a cheap way into Rolls-Royce ownership.

The purchase price is only the start. A cheap car usually reflects work that has been put off, and the cost of catching up rarely falls with the price of the car.

A Bentley T is mechanically different.

Apart from the grille, badges and bonnet, the T Series shares its mechanicals with the Rolls-Royce. It is rarer, which some buyers value.

What to check

Bodywork and structure

The monocoque has rust traps the factory never intended, and proper body repair to the original standard is expensive. Assume nothing from good paint and use a torch, a magnet and patience.

Sills on both sides, especially at the front and rear ends where rot starts and spreads along the length; check the inner sills from underneath
Front and rear wheelarch lips and the lower rear quarter panels for bubbling paint, filler and poor patch repairs
Front and rear valances and the joint where the front wing meets the sill, plus the bottom of the outer front wings
Inner wings in the engine bay, particularly around the front suspension mountings
Rear spring pans and suspension mounting points under the rear of the car, which are known to rot
Boot floor and spare wheel area, and the floorpans where dried out underseal can trap water
Aluminium doors, bonnet and boot lid for electrolytic corrosion around handles, trim and brightwork
Front and rear screen surrounds for bubbling; leaking screen seals let water into the floor and trim
On vinyl covered roofs, lift at the edges where possible and look for bubbles near the screens, a sign of rust underneath
Chrome bumpers on first series cars for pitting and rotten corners, and bumper brackets for corrosion

Hydraulic system, brakes and self-levelling

Two engine driven pumps charge accumulators to high pressure, feeding the brakes and the rear self-levelling. It is reliable when maintained and very costly when neglected.

Confirm the reservoirs are the original metal type and the fluid is RR363; ask what has been used to top up and when the fluid was last changed
Any sign of mineral oil (green LHM) in a Shadow system is a serious warning, as is evidence of mixed fluids
Look for weeping at pipe unions, calipers, accumulators and hoses; the steel pipes can corrode and a high pressure leak can worsen quickly
Look for invoices covering the scheduled hydraulic overhauls and hose renewals, traditionally at 48,000 and 96,000 miles or by age
With the engine running, the car should sit level and not low at the rear or to one side; loading the boot should see it recover within a short time
Listen for knocking under braking or repeated pump noise, which can point to a tired pump
Brake warning lights should go out promptly after start-up and stay out
Ask how often the car has been used; long periods standing are hard on seals and moisture absorbing RR363

Engine and cooling

The aluminium V8 is tough, but it depends on correct coolant. Corrosion inside the block and around the cylinder liners is the expensive risk.

Ask about antifreeze type and change intervals; neglected or wrong coolant can corrode the block and affect the liners
Check coolant colour and level when cold; rusty or oily coolant needs explaining
Watch the temperature on a long run and in traffic; a Shadow should not run hot
Tappet chatter from cold is normal but should fade as the engine warms; persistent noise suggests wear
Look for oil leaks at the rear of the engine on 6,230cc cars, where the rear main seal is a known weak point
Blue smoke on the overrun or after idling points to worn rings or bores
The twin SU carburettors need correct setting up; uneven idle or poor pick-up may be tuning or something deeper
Look for a history of regular servicing at sensible intervals rather than large catch-up bills

Gearbox and drivetrain

All Shadows are automatic. The GM three speed fitted from 1968 is strong; the early four speed is rarer and costlier to put right.

Automatic fluid should be bright red, not brown, black or smelling burnt
Shifts should be smooth with no slipping, flare or harsh engagement
Move between drive and reverse several times; a little take-up is normal, a clonk is not
Early four speed cars should change cleanly; clunky changes are a known issue at higher mileage
Check the selector engages every position cleanly
Listen for clonks or vibration from the rear universal joints and final drive

Suspension, steering and subframes

The subframes are isolated from the body by rubber and mesh mounts that perish with age. Worn mounts and bushes spoil the ride and the refinement the car was bought for.

Inspect the rear subframe mounting pads for perished, collapsed or oil soaked rubber; replacing them is labour intensive
Check the front subframe compliant mounts and suspension bushes for splits and sagging
Rear torque arm rubbers and universal joints for wear
Front ball joints; a knock over bumps usually means wear
Power steering pump and hoses for leaks; first series steering should be very light but not vague or wandering
On the Shadow II, the rack should feel precise with no clunks on lock
Tyres for uneven wear, which can show geometry problems on such a heavy, soft car

Electrics, instruments and climate control

The electrical systems are generally sound for their age, but there is a great deal of equipment to test.

Every electric window, seat adjustment and the central locking
The climate control on both upper and lower settings, and the air conditioning blowing cold
Heater performance and any sign of coolant smell or damp under the dashboard
All gauges, warning lights, clock and fuel gauge
Signs of amateur wiring behind the dash or under the bonnet

Interior and trim

The cabin is a large part of the appeal and among the most expensive parts to restore properly. Its condition also tells you how the car has been kept.

Leather for cracks, splits and fading; tired hide can often be revived but retrimming is costly
Wood veneers for lifting lacquer, splits and sun damage; damaged veneer often signals damp
Carpets and rugs for damp, especially in the front footwells and boot
Switches, handles and chrome fittings all present and working
Rear compartment lights and fittings working on long wheelbase cars
Smell the cabin; damp or mould suggests leaking seals

Paperwork and originality

With a Shadow, the file of invoices is worth reading as carefully as the car itself.

Chassis number on the car against the V5C, and engine number where you can read it
Service history with dates, mileages and who did the work, ideally including recognised specialists
Hydraulic system records, fluid changes and hose renewals
Body repair invoices and photographs of any welding
MOT history checked online for advisories on corrosion, brakes and leaks
Evidence of previous use such as hire work, which means heavy short trip use
Club or factory build records where available to confirm original colour and specification

On the test drive

Start from cold and listen for tappet noise fading as it warms
Watch the brake warning lights go out and the car settle level
Check the gearbox selects cleanly and drives away smoothly
Brake firmly from speed; the car should stop straight with no knocking or pulsing
Drive over poor surfaces and listen for knocks from ball joints or subframe mounts
Feel for wander or vagueness in the steering at speed
Watch the temperature gauge or warning lights through traffic and on a longer run
After the drive, look underneath for fresh drips of fluid

Buying at auction

Many Shadows pass through auction houses such as Mathewsons. Prepare for a sale that gives you a limited look at a complex car, and set your limits before the day.

What you can check in viewing week

Use a torch underneath for rust on sills, arches, spring pans and floors, and for fluid leaks
Use a magnet on wheelarches, sills and lower panels for filler
Check the chassis number and registration against the V5C
Check fluid levels and colour, including coolant and the hydraulic reservoirs if accessible
Look at leather, wood, carpets and headlining for damp and wear
Read the history file in full and photograph invoices
Hear it start up if the auction house allows, and watch it settle level

What you usually cannot do

You usually cannot drive the car
You usually cannot lift it to inspect the subframe mounts and hydraulics fully
You cannot test brake performance or gearbox behaviour under load

Tips

Read the catalogue critically; note what is not said about history and hydraulics
Ask the auction house for extra photographs or information before the sale
Remember the buyer's premium and add it to your budget
Set a firm limit that includes recommissioning and stick to it
Assume a car without recent hydraulic history will need specialist attention
Arrange transport home before the sale rather than planning to drive it

What makes one more desirable

Overall condition and structural soundness above everything else
A thick, coherent history file with specialist servicing
Original colour and trim combination, confirmed by build records
Shadow II and later first series cars are usually preferred for usability
Bentley T and T2 versions are much rarer than the Rolls-Royce
Long wheelbase and Silver Wraith II cars appeal to buyers wanting rear space
Two door saloons and convertibles are a different market and more sought after

This guide does not give values or predict prices.

Selling a Rolls-Royce Silver Shadow and Bentley T Series

Buyers of Shadows have learned to be wary. A clear history and honest description will do more for you than polish.

Preparing the car

Fix any fluid leaks and warning lights before advertising
Have the hydraulic system checked by a specialist and keep the report
Clean and condition the leather and wood carefully
Make sure every electric function works, or say clearly what does not

Paperwork

V5C in your name with matching chassis number
Full service history in date order
Hydraulic, body and gearbox invoices
Current MOT certificate, or reason for exemption
Build records and club documentation if you have them

Where to sell

Specialist classic car dealers
Owners' club classifieds and magazines
Auction houses such as Mathewsons
Online classic car marketplaces

Writing the description

State the exact model, year and whether it is Rolls-Royce or Bentley badged
Give the fluid type and the date of the last hydraulic service
Describe rust repairs honestly and show photographs
List known faults clearly rather than leaving them to be found
Mention ownership history and how often the car has been used

Living with one

Parts supply is strong, with established UK specialists for mechanical, hydraulic, body and trim parts
A specialist network experienced in Shadow hydraulics and V8s exists across the UK
Running costs are high in every respect, so budget generously for servicing, fuel and occasional large bills
Regular use helps keep the hydraulics and seals healthy
Every car is now over 40 years old, so most qualify for historic vehicle tax, and MOT exemption may apply if the car has not been substantially changed; many owners still have an annual check
Agreed value insurance with limited mileage is widely available from classic specialists

Clubs and registers

Questions people ask

What are the main problems with a Rolls-Royce Silver Shadow?

Rust in the sills, arches, valances and rear spring pans, neglected high pressure hydraulics, perished subframe mounts and coolant related corrosion in the engine are the main risks. Most serious problems come from deferred maintenance rather than design faults.

Does a Silver Shadow use RR363 or mineral oil?

All Silver Shadow I and II and Bentley T1 and T2 cars use RR363. Mineral oil came with the Silver Spirit generation in 1980. Mixing the two damages rubber seals and can cause brake failure.

Is a Silver Shadow reliable?

A well maintained Shadow can be dependable, with a durable engine and gearbox. Reliability depends almost entirely on how well the car has been looked after, especially its hydraulics and cooling.

Which is better, Shadow I or Shadow II?

The Shadow II has rack and pinion steering and revised suspension, so many buyers find it better to drive. Early cars have their own appeal, but condition matters more than version.

Is a Bentley T Series different from a Silver Shadow?

Apart from the grille, badges and bonnet, they are mechanically the same. The Bentley is much rarer.

Is mileage important when buying a Silver Shadow?

Less than condition and history. A low mileage car that has stood unused can need more work than a higher mileage car used and serviced regularly.

Is a Silver Shadow a good first classic?

It can be if you buy carefully and budget for specialist maintenance. It is not a cheap car to run, and a poor one can quickly become very expensive.

Sources

Checked 20 October 2026.

An independent guide. Not a valuation and not financial advice. Always inspect a car in person or have it inspected before you buy.