Porsche Boxster 986 and 987 buyer's guide

The Boxster is the mid-engined, two-seat roadster Porsche launched in 1996. The first generation, type 986, ran until 2004, when the 987 replaced it. The 987 was updated in 2009 with direct injection engines and the PDK twin-clutch gearbox, and was built until 2012. Both generations came as the Boxster and the more powerful Boxster S, with several limited editions.

People buy them for a proper Porsche driving experience, with a flat-six behind the seats, balanced handling and a quick electric hood, in a car with a boot at each end that is easy to use every day. Large numbers mean plenty of choice, but also many cars run on a budget. The engine's reputation, the intermediate shaft bearing and bore scoring in particular, needs to be understood rather than feared or ignored.

This guide is for buyers at a dealer, privately or at an auction such as Mathewsons in North Yorkshire, and for owners preparing to sell. It does not cover repairs: a Porsche specialist can advise, and a pre-purchase inspection by one is strongly recommended.

By Jon Cosson · Checked 20 October 2026

At a glance

Built986: 1996 to 2004. 987: 2004 to 2012 (987.1 to 2008, 987.2 from 2009)
Body styleTwo-seat roadster with electric fabric hood; optional hardtop; boot front and rear
LayoutMid-mounted, water-cooled flat-six, rear-wheel drive
986 engines2.5 (1996 to 1999), 2.7 (from 1999), 3.2 in the Boxster S (from 1999)
987 engines2.7 and 3.2 S from 2004; 3.4 S from 2007; direct injection 2.9 and 3.4 S from 2009
Power rangeAbout 201bhp (early 2.5) to about 320bhp (2010 Boxster Spyder)
GearboxesFive or six-speed manual; Tiptronic automatic to 2008; seven-speed PDK from 2009
FactoriesStuttgart, and from 1997 also Valmet in Finland under contract
Related models996 generation 911 (shared front end, interior and engine design); Cayman coupe
Limited editions550 Spyder anniversary, RS 60 Spyder, Design Edition 2, Sport Edition, Boxster Spyder, Black Edition
ClubPorsche Club Great Britain, which runs a Boxster register

The Porsche Boxster (986 and 987) in brief

The Boxster was first shown as a concept at the Detroit motor show in January 1993, and the production car followed in 1996. It was developed alongside the 996 generation 911, sharing headlamps, front wings, bonnet, much of the interior and the basic design of the water-cooled flat-six. Demand was strong enough that from 1997 Valmet in Finland assembled cars under contract as well as Stuttgart.

The original 986 had a 2.5-litre engine of about 201bhp, with a five-speed manual or five-speed Tiptronic. In 1999 the standard car moved to a 2.7 of about 217bhp, and the Boxster S arrived with a 3.2 of about 250bhp and a six-speed manual. A facelift for the 2003 model year brought clear indicators, revised bumpers, a glovebox, more power and, most usefully, a glass rear window in the hood instead of plastic. The best known 986 special is the 2004 550 Spyder anniversary edition, limited to 1,953 cars.

The 987 arrived in late 2004. It looked similar but was revised throughout. The 2.7 made about 240bhp and the 3.2 S about 280bhp, and PASM adaptive suspension became an option. For the 2007 model year the 2.7 gained VarioCam Plus and about 245bhp, while the S moved to the Cayman S's 3.4-litre engine with about 295bhp. Run-out cars in 2008 included the RS 60 Spyder and Porsche Design Edition 2.

The 987.2 arrived for the 2009 model year with new direct fuel injection (DFI) engines, a 2.9 of about 255bhp and a 3.4 S of about 310bhp, and PDK replaced Tiptronic. The DFI engines have no intermediate shaft, so the bearing question disappears. The lighter Boxster Spyder followed in 2010, and a Boxster S Black Edition was among the last 987s in 2011 before the 981 took over in 2012.

For buyers, the engine matters most. Pre-2009 engines use an intermediate shaft bearing that can fail, and its type changed over the years. Some engines, mainly the 3.4-litre 987 units, can suffer bore scoring. Neither affects every car, but both make history and a specialist inspection more important than mileage or shine.

Versions to know

VersionYearsWhat to know
986 Boxster 2.51996 to 1999About 201bhp, five-speed manual or Tiptronic, plastic rear window. Uses the earlier dual-row intermediate shaft bearing. Some early engines had casting faults that let oil and coolant mix, so check for any engine replacement.
986 Boxster 2.71999 to 2004About 217bhp, more after the facelift. The bearing changes from dual row to single row during 2000 and 2001, so check rather than assume.
986 Boxster S 3.21999 to 2004About 250bhp at launch, six-speed manual, with power rising at the facelift and again for the final year. Generally the most rewarding 986 to drive.
986 facelift2003 model year onwardsGlass rear window, glovebox, clear indicators, revised bumpers and more power. The easier 986 to live with.
986 550 Spyder anniversary edition2004Boxster S limited to 1,953 numbered cars, silver with a cocoa hood and interior, sports suspension and the most powerful 3.2.
987.1 Boxster 2.7 and S 3.22004 to 2006About 240bhp and 280bhp, optional PASM, manual or Tiptronic S. Intermediate shaft bearing still present.
987.1 Boxster 2.7 and S 3.42007 to 2008 model yearsAbout 245bhp and 295bhp. Larger, more durable intermediate shaft bearing that cannot be replaced without dismantling the engine. The 3.4 is the engine most associated with bore scoring.
987.1 limited editions2008RS 60 Spyder, 1,960 cars, about 303bhp, GT Silver, PASM, usually a red hood. Porsche Design Edition 2, 500 cars in Carrara White. Sport Edition run-out cars had extra equipment and standard performance.
987.2 Boxster 2.9 and S 3.42009 to 2012DFI engines with no intermediate shaft, about 255bhp and 310bhp. PDK option, LED lights, revised chassis, optional limited-slip differential and touchscreen PCM.
987.2 Boxster Spyder2010 to 2012About 80kg lighter, 3.4 of about 320bhp, aluminium doors and engine lid, standard limited-slip differential and a simple manual hood. Manual or PDK.
987.2 Boxster S Black Edition2011Limited run Boxster S with black styling details, one of the last 987 models.

Pros and cons

ProsCons
  • Mid-engined balance and steering feel, with a flat-six sound to match.
  • Usable daily: quick electric hood, two boots and a comfortable ride.
  • Wide choice of engine, gearbox, colour and specification.
  • Timing chains rather than a cambelt, and long service intervals.
  • 987.2 DFI engines have no intermediate shaft bearing.
  • PDK on the 987.2 is regarded as an excellent automatic.
  • Major rust is unusual on well kept cars.
  • Strong network of independent Porsche specialists and an active club register.
  • Intermediate shaft bearing failure on pre-2009 engines can wreck the engine.
  • Bore scoring affects a minority of engines, mainly the 3.4-litre 987 units.
  • Front radiators and air conditioning condensers collect leaves and corrode.
  • Blocked hood drains can let water reach control units in the cabin.
  • Rear main seal leaks are common.
  • Clutch changes are costly because the gearbox has to come out.
  • Many cars have been maintained on a budget.
  • Tiptronic dulls performance, especially with the smaller engines.

Myths and realities

Every Boxster engine will eventually suffer intermediate shaft bearing failure.

Only a minority fail. The early dual-row bearing is regarded as the most durable original type and the single-row bearing of about 2000 to 2005 as the most vulnerable. The 2006 to 2008 bearing is larger and more robust, and 987.2 engines have none.

A car with an IMS upgrade is immune from engine trouble.

An upgraded bearing deals with one weakness only, not bore scoring, leaks, cooling or wear. Ask for the invoice, who fitted it, when, and whether the part has its own service interval.

Low mileage means a better Boxster.

Cars left unused suffer seized brakes, flat batteries, perished seals and old fluids. A higher mileage car with regular oil changes is often the safer buy.

Tiptronic and PDK are basically the same.

Tiptronic is a conventional automatic that blunts performance. PDK, from 2009, is a seven-speed twin-clutch gearbox with fast changes.

What to check

Engine: intermediate shaft bearing, bore scoring and general health

The engine is where a Boxster can cost the most, so start here, knowing which engine and year you are looking at.

  • Identify the engine: 2.5, 2.7, 3.2 or 3.4, pre-2009 with an intermediate shaft or 2009 onwards DFI without one. The engine number helps a specialist identify the bearing type.
  • Ask whether an upgraded intermediate shaft bearing has been fitted, with an invoice naming the part, garage and date. On 2006 to 2008 engines the original cannot be changed without dismantling the engine.
  • Ask whether oil filters have been cut open and inspected for metal debris at services.
  • Listen at the rear at idle. Knocking or grinding from the back of the engine is a reason to walk away.
  • Bore scoring signs: sooty deposits in one bank of tailpipes, ticking at idle and rising oil consumption. On a 3.4 especially, have a specialist borescope all six cylinders.
  • Check the dipstick and the oil filler cap. A creamy residue suggests oil and coolant mixing, which on early engines can mean a cracked bore or casting fault.
  • Blue smoke while driving, or heavy smoke and a rough idle at start-up, often points to a failed air oil separator.
  • A rattle at idle can mean worn timing chains or guides.
  • Hesitation often comes from a failing mass airflow sensor; a misfire is often a cracked coil pack.
  • Look for oil at the engine and gearbox joint. A rear main seal leak is common and best fixed with the clutch.

Cooling system

Overheating harms these engines, and the cooling parts sit where debris collects.

  • Look through the front grilles at the radiators and air conditioning condensers. Packed leaves and corroded fins are trouble.
  • Ask when radiators and condensers were last renewed; they can fail after six to eight years.
  • Check the coolant expansion tank, reached from the rear boot area, for cracks and white deposits. A split tank can soak the carpets behind the seats.
  • Coolant should be clean, at the right level and free of oil.
  • Water pumps have a limited life; ask when it was last changed.
  • Watch the temperature gauge in traffic, check the fans run and that the air conditioning blows cold.

Gearbox and drivetrain: manual, Tiptronic and PDK

Gearboxes are generally strong, but each type has its own checks.

  • Manual: changes should be clean. Six-speed boxes can jump out of second, which needs a strip-down.
  • Clutch: a heavy pedal, high biting point or slip in a high gear means a change is due, the ideal time for bearing and rear main seal work.
  • Listen for clicking or knocking from the rear on take-up.
  • Tiptronic (to 2008): smooth changes without flare or harsh engagement, and prompt kickdown. Expect it to feel slower than a manual.
  • PDK (from 2009): quick, smooth changes with no judder pulling away or creeping.
  • Ask for evidence of automatic gearbox fluid changes; specialists often advise more frequent changes than the official schedule.
  • Confirm a claimed limited-slip differential on a 987.2 from the options list.

Suspension, steering and brakes

Wear is predictable, and tyres tell you how a car has been kept.

  • Check the car sits level. Broken coil springs are very common.
  • Knocks over rough roads can come from worn trailing arm rose joints or lower arm bushes.
  • Inner edge tyre wear points to poor alignment, worn bushes or kerb strikes.
  • Check tyre makes and ages match on each axle; recognised, ideally Porsche approved, tyres suggest careful ownership.
  • Inspect wheels for kerb damage, which can lead to corrosion.
  • Rusty discs and sticking calipers are common on laid-up cars.
  • On cars with PASM, check the mode switch works with no warning lights.

Hood, bodywork and structure

Serious rust is unusual, but the hood, its drains and accident damage need care.

  • Operate the hood several times. It should move smoothly and lock without help; hesitation or noise points to mechanism or cable wear.
  • Check the fabric for holes and wear at the folds, and the seals for damage.
  • Pre-facelift 986s have a plastic rear window that clouds and cracks; later glass windows have a heater to check.
  • Feel the carpets behind the seats and in the footwells for damp. Blocked drains let water reach control units in the cabin.
  • Check both boots for water.
  • Look along the front for stone chips and colour mismatch. Front resprays are normal, but uneven gaps and overspray suggest accident repair.
  • Look underneath for damaged structure, especially on track cars, and corrosion on cheap high-mileage cars.
  • Check any factory hardtop, its fittings and stand.

Electrics, interior and equipment

Most electrical faults come from water, batteries or switchgear wear.

  • Check every switch, windows, mirrors, locking, heated seats and the radio or PCM unit.
  • Look for warning lights after start-up and ask about recent diagnostic checks.
  • A weak battery causes odd behaviour; ask how the car was stored.
  • Check headlamps and indicators work and are not misted.
  • Driver's seat bolsters wear first; early soft-touch switchgear can turn sticky or scratched.
  • Confirm claimed options such as Sport Chrono, PASM, hardtop or limited-slip differential against the option codes.

Paperwork, history and originality

The history file is the best evidence of how the engine has been treated.

  • Check the VIN against the V5C and service book.
  • Full history from Porsche centres or specialists matters more than low mileage; recent regular work beats an old stamped book.
  • Look for frequent oil changes, often more often than the official interval.
  • Look for invoices for bearing upgrades, rear main seal, clutch, radiators, condensers, water pump, coolant tank and suspension.
  • Check the online MOT history for advisories and mileage gaps.
  • For a 550 Spyder, RS 60, Design Edition 2 or Black Edition, check the plaque or badge and ask the club register for help.
  • Note modifications; aftermarket exhausts can drone, and heavily modified cars are harder to sell.

On the test drive

  • Arrive with the engine cold; watch for smoke at start-up and listen as it warms.
  • Stand behind the car at idle and listen for knocking or grinding.
  • Watch the temperature gauge on the road and in traffic.
  • On a manual, change briskly through all gears and lift off in second to see if it jumps out.
  • On a Tiptronic check kickdown; on a PDK check pulling away and creeping are smooth.
  • Drive over rough surfaces with the radio off and listen for suspension clonks.
  • Brake firmly on a clear straight road; the car should not pull.
  • Cruise at motorway speed to check for exhaust drone and hood wind noise.
  • Afterwards, look under the rear for fresh oil or coolant drips.

Buying at auction

Boxsters appear regularly at UK auctions, including regional sales such as Mathewsons in North Yorkshire. Because so much depends on the engine, which you cannot fully assess at a sale, an auction Boxster carries more unknowns. Use the viewing days well.

What you can check in viewing week

  • Use a torch underneath for oil at the engine and gearbox joint, coolant traces, broken springs and damage.
  • Use a magnet and look along the panels for filler and repaints, especially at the front.
  • Check the VIN against the V5C and catalogue, and the model and engine against what is claimed.
  • Open both boots: check the oil filler cap for residue, the expansion tank for cracks and the floors for water.
  • Look through the front grilles at the radiators and condensers.
  • Feel the carpets behind the seats for damp.
  • Read the history file for bearing, cooling and clutch invoices.
  • If start-ups are allowed, listen at the rear and watch for smoke and warning lights.

What you usually cannot do

  • You usually cannot drive it, so the gearbox, clutch, steering and brakes remain unknown.
  • You cannot borescope the cylinders or inspect an oil filter.
  • You usually cannot put it on a lift or read fault codes.
  • You often cannot run the engine until fully hot.

Tips

  • Read the catalogue critically. IMS done or full history mean little without invoices.
  • Treat the engine on a pre-2009 car without strong evidence as an unknown, and allow for major work in your limit.
  • Check special edition claims against plaques and documents.
  • Remember the buyer's premium and fees on top of the hammer price, and read the terms.
  • Set your limit before the sale and stick to it.
  • Arrange transport home before you bid, and check insurance and tax if you plan to drive it.

What makes one more desirable

  • Documented history comes first, with specialist servicing and invoices for the known weak points.
  • Evidence of an upgraded bearing, or a 987.2 with no bearing at all, adds confidence.
  • S models are generally preferred, though a well kept 2.7 has its own following.
  • Manuals are usually preferred on 986 and 987.1 cars; PDK is well regarded on the 987.2.
  • Facelifted 986s with the glass rear window are generally preferred.
  • The 550 Spyder, RS 60 Spyder, Design Edition 2 and Boxster Spyder attract specialist interest when confirmed genuine.
  • Options such as a factory hardtop, Sport Chrono, PASM and limited-slip differential add appeal.
  • Unmodified cars in sought-after colours sell more easily than modified ones.

This guide does not give values or predict prices.

Selling a Porsche Boxster (986 and 987)

Boxster buyers know about the engine issues, so clear evidence and an honest description stand out.

Preparing the car

  • Have a specialist service done and fix warning lights and small faults.
  • Clear the front grilles and hood drains, and dry any damp carpets.
  • Make sure the hood works smoothly and the rear window is clear.
  • Consider a pre-sale inspection, including a borescope on a 3.4, to show buyers.
  • Charge the battery and fit matching, in-date tyres.

Paperwork

  • V5C in your name with the correct details.
  • Service history in order, with bearing, clutch, cooling and suspension invoices.
  • MOT certificates and any inspection or borescope report.
  • Handbooks, service book, both keys and the options list.
  • Documents, plaques or badges for any limited edition.

Where to sell

  • Porsche Club Great Britain classified adverts.
  • Independent Porsche specialists, by sale or part exchange.
  • Auctions, including regional sales such as Mathewsons, after checking commission and entry terms.

Writing the description

  • State year, model, engine, gearbox and whether it is a 986, 987.1 or 987.2.
  • Say what has been done about the intermediate shaft bearing, when and by whom, or that nothing has.
  • List major work such as radiators, clutch, rear main seal and suspension.
  • Declare modifications and accident repair.
  • Photograph the engine bay, underside, radiators, hood and interior.

Living with one

  • Parts supply is good from Porsche and specialist suppliers.
  • Independent Porsche specialists are widespread and usually cost less than main dealers.
  • Official servicing is every two years or 20,000 miles, but many owners change the oil more often.
  • Keep the front grilles, radiators and hood drains clear of leaves.
  • Use the car regularly or keep it on a battery conditioner.
  • Two boots make it practical for touring.
  • The earliest cars reach 40 in 2036, so none yet qualifies for historic tax or MOT exemption.
  • Agreed value, limited mileage insurance is available for many cars; declare modifications.

Clubs and registers

Questions people ask

What is the IMS bearing problem on the Porsche Boxster?

The intermediate shaft bearing on pre-2009 engines can fail and badly damage the engine, though only a minority do. Early dual-row bearings are regarded as the most durable original type, the single-row bearings of about 2000 to 2005 as the most vulnerable, and the larger 2006 to 2008 bearing as robust but not replaceable without dismantling the engine.

Which Boxster years have the IMS bearing?

All 986 and 987.1 Boxsters, 1996 to 2008. The 987.2 from the 2009 model year uses DFI engines without one.

What is bore scoring and which Boxsters suffer from it?

Scratching of the cylinder walls, causing oil consumption, ticking and sooty tailpipes. It is most often reported on 3.4-litre 987 engines and rarely on the 2.7. A specialist borescope inspection is the check.

Should I buy a Tiptronic or PDK Boxster?

Tiptronic, to 2008, makes the car feel slower, especially with the smaller engines. PDK, from 2009, is a fast seven-speed twin-clutch gearbox and widely praised. For an automatic, a PDK 987.2 is the stronger choice.

Is a Porsche Boxster reliable?

A well maintained one can be, but repairs are not cheap. Most problems are known: cooling parts, suspension wear, oil leaks and, on pre-2009 cars, the engine risks. Buy on history and a specialist inspection.

Which Boxster should I buy, 986 or 987?

Facelifted 986s with the glass rear window are the easier first generation cars. The 987 has more power, and the 987.2 avoids the bearing altogether. Condition and history matter more than generation.

Is a Boxster S worth it over the standard car?

The S has a bigger engine and six-speed gearbox and is generally preferred. The 2.7 is rarely linked with bore scoring, so it can be the sensible choice.

Is a Porsche Boxster a good first classic?

It can be, for someone who wants a usable modern classic and budgets for specialist servicing. A pre-purchase inspection is important.

Sources

Checked 20 October 2026.

An independent guide. Not a valuation and not financial advice. Always inspect a car in person or have it inspected before you buy.