MG T-Series Midget buyer's guide

The MG T-Series Midgets are small, open two-seat sports cars with a separate steel chassis and a steel-panelled body built over an ash frame. Five models were made at Abingdon between 1936 and 1955: the TA, TB, TC, TD and TF, the last offered with 1250cc and 1500cc engines.

This page is a short buying and selling summary. The MG T-Series archive linked from this guide holds the full model histories and a longer buying guide. Use this page to know what matters most when viewing a car at a dealer, privately or at an auction, and when preparing one for sale.

By Jon Cosson · Checked 20 October 2026

At a glance

Built	1936 to 1955, at Abingdon
Models	TA, TB, TC, TD (including TD Mk II), TF 1250, TF 1500
Construction	Separate steel chassis, steel panels over an ash body frame
Engines	1292cc MPJG (TA); 1250cc XPAG (TB, TC, TD, TF 1250); 1466cc XPEG (TF 1500)
Carburettors	Twin SUs on all models
Gearbox	Four-speed manual, no synchromesh on first
Numbers made	About 3,000 TA, 379 TB, 10,000 TC, nearly 30,000 TD, 9,600 TF (3,400 of them TF 1500)
Drive	TA, TB and TC right-hand drive only; TD and TF also built in left-hand drive
Main clubs	MG Car Club T Register, MG 'T' Society

The MG T-Series Midget (TA, TB, TC, TD, TF 1250, TF 1500) in brief

The TA of 1936 replaced the overhead-camshaft PB Midget with a larger, softer car using a 1292cc pushrod MPJG engine, hydraulic brakes and synchromesh on the top two gears. Tickford drophead coupé bodies were also offered. In May 1939 the TB took the new 1250cc XPAG engine, but only 379 were built before war work stopped production.

The TC arrived in 1945 as a lightly revised TB with a body four inches wider. It kept 19in wire wheels, a rear-mounted spare, a slab fuel tank, cam-type steering and leaf springs all round. It was built in right-hand drive only, yet sold well abroad and introduced many Americans to sports cars.

The 1950 TD was a bigger change: a new chassis with coil-spring independent front suspension from the Y-type saloon, rack-and-pinion steering, bumpers and 15in steel disc wheels. It was the first T-type offered in left-hand drive, and most of the near 30,000 built went to North America. The TD Mk II, chassis prefix TD/C, had a more powerful engine and extra dampers.

The TF of late 1953 was a reworked TD with a lower bonnet line, sloping grille, faired-in headlamps, new dashboard and optional wire wheels. From mid-1954 the TF 1500 used the 1466cc XPEG engine. The MGA replaced it in 1955.

Versions to know

Version	Years	What to know
TA	1936 to 1939	1292cc MPJG engine unique to this model, hydraulic brakes. Tickford drophead option. Engine parts are harder to find than XPAG parts.
TB	1939	TA body and chassis with the 1250cc XPAG engine and revised gearbox. Only 379 built, including Tickfords, so the rarest T-type.
TC	1945 to 1949	Wider body, 19in wire wheels, leaf springs, cam steering, right-hand drive only. Some export cars had extra lighting and bumpers.
TD	1950 to 1953	New chassis, independent front suspension, rack-and-pinion steering, 15in disc wheels, bumpers. Left or right-hand drive. Wire wheels were never fitted at the factory.
TD Mk II	1950 to 1953	Factory higher-performance TD. Chassis prefix TD/C, Mk II badges, bonnet bulge over the carburettors and extra friction dampers. Production is quoted at around 1,700 but sources vary.
TF 1250	1953 to 1955	Lower bodywork, faired-in headlamps, central octagonal instruments, no fuel gauge. Wire wheels optional. XPAG engine.
TF 1500	1954 to 1955	1466cc XPEG engine with more power. Identified by 1500 badges on the bonnet sides and an XPEG engine number. About 3,400 built.

Pros and cons

Pros	Cons
Classic pre-war style with simple, understandable mechanicals Strong club and specialist support in the UK and abroad Mechanical parts supply for postwar cars is good for their age TD and TF steer and ride noticeably better than the TC Low weight and an open cockpit give an engaging drive at modest speeds	The ash frame can rot unseen and is costly to replace properly Modest performance; 50mph is a comfortable cruise in standard form XPAG crankshafts are a known weak point Weather protection from hood and sidescreens is poor Cramped cockpit for tall drivers Some TF and TA specific trim parts are scarce or not reproduced

Myths and realities

A separate chassis means rust is not a worry.

The chassis is generally strong, but the body depends on its ash frame and steel panels, which trap water. Wood rot is the most important check on any T-type.

Right-hand-drive TDs and TFs are common in the UK because they were sold here.

Most TDs and TFs were exported, and many UK cars are converted left-hand-drive cars brought back from North America. Original right-hand-drive cars are the minority.

Fresh paint and chrome mean a good car.

Shiny finishes say nothing about the wood, the chassis or the engine. Check what was done and when.

What to check

Ash frame and body

This is where the most expensive problems hide. Check it before anything else.

Door fit: doors should sit flush at the top and shut cleanly with only slight movement. Dropped or binding doors point to rotten hinge or latch posts, or a twisted body.
A and B posts and the timber around them, where wood is exposed and usually rots first.
Lowest timbers, sills and running board mounts from underneath; ask the seller's permission before probing.
Bubbling along the bottom edges of panels, a sign of patched rust that can trap moisture in the wood.
Cracks in seams, especially where the rear of the bonnet meets the scuttle.
Rust in the doors, the bottom of the scuttle, behind the fuel tank and around the front wing supports.
Newly glued-down carpets with no other interior work, which can hide a poor floor.

Chassis

Chassis are generally sound, but accident damage matters.

Look along the side rails for kinks or deformation from past accidents.
Check for patch repairs, broken or sagging springs and poor exhaust mountings.
Treat thick fresh underseal with caution; it can hide rust and rot.

Engine

The XPAG and XPEG are smooth and free-revving, but tired units are common and many cars have replacement or non-original engines.

Healthy oil pressure when hot; very low pressure at idle when warm is a warning.
Knocks or rumbles, which may point to crankshaft or bearing wear. Paperwork for a modern replacement crankshaft is a plus.
Milky oil or foam under the radiator cap.
Heavy oil loss from the rear of the engine; a little seepage is typical of unmodified engines.
Engine number prefix: MPJG (TA), XPAG (TB to TF 1250), XPEG (TF 1500). Volvo, MGA and MGB engine swaps exist and alter originality.
Twin SU carburettors badly out of balance give uneven running.

Gearbox and rear axle

Gearbox parts can be scarce, so wear matters.

Jumping out of gear on the overrun.
Smooth synchromesh on second, third and top; first has none.
Clunks from the rear axle.
Ford Type 9 five-speed conversions and taller axle ratios are common. Ask whether the original parts come with the car.

Suspension, steering and brakes

Check for neglect of greasing and long storage.

Some play is normal in TC steering. On a TD or TF, more than slight play suggests worn rack or track rod ends.
Split rack gaiters on TD and TF.
Perished rubber bushes allowing metal-to-metal wear.
Seized or leaking wheel cylinders, uneven braking and the state of hoses. The TD and TF master cylinder sits under the floorboards.

Electrics and instruments

The system is simple, so bodged wiring is easy to spot.

Crimp connectors, patched harness and odd switches show amateur work.
The combined oil pressure and water temperature gauge is often the first to fail.
Wipers, horn, lights and indicators on later cars should all work. TFs have no fuel gauge.

Interior, hood and trim

Most cars have been retrimmed at some point.

Leather condition, shrinkage and pulled stitching.
Hood, frame and sidescreens complete and fitting.
Radiator shell, windscreen frame and TD headlamps are hard to replace; check their condition.

Paperwork, numbers and originality

Numbers tell you the model, original drive side and often the history.

Chassis number stamped on the nearside front of the chassis should match the ID plate and the V5C. ID plates can be bought, so do not rely on the plate alone.
TD Mk II chassis numbers carry the TD/C prefix.
TD export codes: EXR means export right-hand drive, EXL or EXLU and EXL/NA mean left-hand drive.
TF car numbers encode body colour and market; first digit 3 or 4 means left-hand drive.
Engine number and prefix compared with the model and any heritage certificate.
Receipts and photographs for any wood or body work, and for engine rebuilds.

On the test drive

Start from cold and watch oil pressure as the engine warms.
Use every gear, including on the overrun, to check for jumping out.
Check for heavy wandering on a TC, or vague steering on a TD or TF.
Brake firmly in a straight line and feel for pulling.
Drive over rough surfaces and listen for scuttle shake and body creaks, which can suggest weak wood.

Buying at auction

T-types appear regularly at UK auctions such as Mathewsons in North Yorkshire. Viewing days are your only chance to inspect, so arrive early and take your time.

What you can check in viewing week

Door fit, panel gaps and seams by eye.
A torch underneath for chassis condition, repairs and underseal.
A magnet on panels to find heavy filler.
Chassis and engine numbers against the V5C and catalogue.
Fluid levels and condition, and a start-up if staff allow it.
The paperwork file on the day.

What you usually cannot do

Usually you cannot drive the car.
You normally cannot put it on a lift or probe the timber.
Hot oil pressure and gearbox behaviour under load are hard to judge.

Tips

Read the catalogue critically: words like restored or rebuilt need receipts behind them.
Check whether a TD or TF is a converted left-hand-drive car if the description does not say.
Remember there is a buyer's premium on top of the hammer.
Set a firm limit before bidding and stick to it.
Arrange transport home in advance; the car may not be fit to drive far.

What makes one more desirable

Sound, well-documented ash frame and body.
Original drive side: an original right-hand-drive TD or TF is rarer in the UK.
Matching chassis and correct engine type for the model.
Rare variants such as the TB, TD Mk II, TF 1500 and Tickford bodies.
Long continuous history and period records.
Sympathetic, reversible modifications with original parts retained.

This guide does not give values or predict prices.

Selling a MG T-Series Midget (TA, TB, TC, TD, TF 1250, TF 1500)

Buyers who know T-types will check the wood, the numbers and the history first, so prepare for those questions.

Preparing the car

Fix small faults such as gauges, wipers and leaks.
Clean underneath so buyers can see the chassis.
Make sure the hood and sidescreens fit and are complete.

Paperwork

V5C, MOT history and any heritage certificate.
Receipts and photographs of wood, body and engine work.
Details of any left-hand-drive conversion or engine and gearbox changes.

Where to sell

MG Car Club T Register and MG 'T' Society classified sections.
Specialist dealers and T-type specialists.
Classic car auctions such as Mathewsons.

Writing the description

State the model, chassis and engine numbers clearly.
Say whether the car is original right-hand drive or converted.
Be honest about wood condition and when it was last checked.
List modifications and say which original parts are included.

Living with one

Mechanical parts for postwar cars are widely available; TA and some TF trim is harder to source.
Regular greasing and short service intervals are part of ownership.
Keep the car dry; ash frames suffer if stored or used in wet conditions.
Cars over 40 years old can qualify for historic vehicle tax and MOT exemption if not substantially changed; many owners still have an annual check.
Agreed value, limited mileage classic insurance is widely available.

Clubs and registers

Questions people ask

What is the most important thing to check on an MG T-type?

The ash body frame. Door fit, the A and B posts and the lowest timbers tell you most. Mechanical faults are usually easier to deal with than wood rot.

Which T-Series is easiest to drive?

The TD and TF, which have independent front suspension and rack-and-pinion steering. The TC feels more vintage and wanders more on its narrow 19in wheels.

How can I tell if a TD or TF was left-hand drive?

Check the codes on the ID plate. On a TD, EXL, EXLU or EXL/NA mean left-hand drive. On a TF, a first digit of 3 or 4 in the car number means left-hand drive.

How do I identify a TF 1500?

The engine number should carry the XPEG prefix and the car has 1500 badges on the bonnet sides. Check the numbers, since badges can be added.

Is a T-type a good first classic?

It can be, if you buy a car with a sound frame and accept modest performance and regular greasing. Club support is strong.

Are non-original engines and gearboxes a problem?

Swaps such as Ford Type 9 gearboxes or later engines make cars easier to use but reduce originality. Ask for the original parts.

Sources

Checked 20 October 2026.

An independent guide. Not a valuation and not financial advice. Always inspect a car in person or have it inspected before you buy.