Jaguar Mk2 buyer's guide

The Jaguar Mk2 is the compact sports saloon Jaguar launched in October 1959, with a choice of 2.4, 3.4 or 3.8 litre XK six-cylinder engines, disc brakes on all four wheels and a walnut and leather cabin. It was renamed 240 and 340 in 1967, and the same body was used for the Daimler 2.5 V8 and V8-250 from 1962 to 1969.

People buy them for the looks, the performance of the larger engines and the period cabin, and because parts are plentiful. Most survivors have been restored, so the quality of that work matters more than the mileage.

This is a short buying and selling summary for anyone looking at a Mk2 at a dealer, privately or at an auction such as Mathewsons in North Yorkshire. For more detail on history, engines and upgrades, see the Jaguar Mk2 archive. This guide does not cover repairs.

By Jon Cosson · Checked 20 October 2026

At a glance

Built	Mk2 1959 to 1967; 240 and 340 1967 to 1969; Daimler 2.5 V8 and V8-250 1962 to 1969
Numbers made	About 84,000 Mk2s (83,701 per the JDHT, 84,180 per the JEC); 4,446 240s; about 2,800 340s; Daimler V8 about 17,600 to 17,900 depending on source
Body	Four-door, five-seat saloon with steel monocoque (unitary) construction shared with the Mk1
Jaguar engines	XK twin-cam straight six: 2,483cc (120bhp), 3,442cc (210bhp), 3,781cc (220bhp); 240 uprated to about 133bhp
Daimler engine	2,548cc V8 designed by Edward Turner
Gearboxes	Moss four-speed manual to September 1965, then Jaguar all-synchromesh four-speed; optional overdrive; Borg-Warner automatic
Brakes	Dunlop disc brakes on all four wheels as standard
Rear suspension	Live axle on leaf (cart) springs located by a Panhard rod; wider rear track than the Mk1
Maker	Jaguar Cars, Coventry
Clubs	Jaguar Enthusiasts' Club, Jaguar Drivers' Club, Daimler and Lanchester Owners' Club

The Jaguar Mk2 and Daimler 2.5 V8 / V8-250 in brief

The Mk2 was a thorough facelift of the 2.4 and 3.4 Litre saloons later known as the Mk1. It kept the monocoque body but gained larger windows with thinner pillars, a new grille, a wider rear track and all-round disc brakes as standard.

Three engines were offered from launch. The 2.4 is the gentlest and only just reaches about 100mph. The 3.4 is about 10bhp behind the 3.8 and feels nearly as quick. The 3.8, capable of more than 120mph, is the version most buyers want, and in period it was a favourite with tuners such as Coombs of Guildford.

Early cars use the Moss four-speed gearbox, with no synchromesh on first and a slow change. Jaguar's all-synchromesh gearbox replaced it in September 1965. Overdrive, a Borg-Warner automatic and power steering were options.

In September 1967 the range was cut back. The 3.8 was dropped, and the 2.4 and 3.4 became the 240 and 340, with slimmer bumpers, Ambla vinyl seats in place of leather as standard and cheaper carpet. The 240 gained a revised cylinder head and twin SU carburettors. The 340 ended in 1968 after the XJ6 arrived, and the 240 in 1969.

After buying Daimler in 1960, Jaguar fitted Daimler's 2.5 litre V8 to the Mk2 body to create the Daimler 2.5 V8, launched in October 1962 with a Daimler grille and badges and an automatic gearbox as standard. A manual gearbox became available in early 1967, and the late 1967 V8-250 gained slim bumpers but kept leather trim.

Versions to know

Version	Years	What to know
Mk2 2.4	1959 to 1967	The most economical and least powerful version, at about 120bhp. A smoother, freer revving engine than many expect, but performance is modest.
Mk2 3.4	1959 to 1967	About 210bhp and close to the 3.8 on the road. Often seen as the best all round choice.
Mk2 3.8	1959 to 1967	About 220bhp with a limited-slip differential as standard. The most sought-after Mk2, particularly as a manual with overdrive. Check that a claimed 3.8 started life as one.
Jaguar 240	1967 to 1969	Renamed 2.4 with slimmer bumpers, vinyl seats and an improved head with twin SU carburettors giving about 133bhp. All-synchromesh gearbox as standard.
Jaguar 340	1967 to 1968	Renamed 3.4 with the same trim changes as the 240. Short production makes it the least common Jaguar version.
Daimler 2.5 V8	1962 to 1967	Mk2 body with the Edward Turner V8, Daimler grille and badges, and automatic as standard. Manual offered from early 1967.
Daimler V8-250	1967 to 1969	Slimline bumpers, alternator and heated rear window, but kept leather trim and fog lamps.
Modified cars and restomods	Any	Many have five-speed gearboxes, electric power steering, uprated brakes and suspension, or larger engines. Judge each on the quality and documentation of the work.

Pros and cons

Pros	Cons
Strong performance from the 3.4 and 3.8 XK engines All-round disc brakes as standard Four doors and room for five, so usable for family trips Excellent parts supply and a large specialist network Several versions to suit different budgets and tastes Well supported by long established clubs	Monocoque body with many mud and water traps, so rust can be extensive Many cars carry old or poor quality restoration work Interior wood, leather and headlining are costly to put right Heavy steering on cars without power assistance Clutch replacement means taking the engine out Some cars are not the model they claim to be

Myths and realities

A low mileage Mk2 is the one to buy.

Almost every survivor has been restored. The condition of the shell and the quality of the work matter far more than the odometer.

Only a 3.8 is worth having.

The 3.4 is close on performance, the 2.4 is pleasant at modest speeds and the Daimler has its own V8 character. The best car for you is the best body you can find.

The 240 and 340 are just cheapened Mk2s to avoid.

They lost some trim but share the body, engine family and running gear, and all have the all-synchromesh gearbox. They suit buyers who want to use the car.

Any car badged Coombs is a Coombs car.

Only around 33 Coombs-modified cars are believed to have been built. Period evidence is essential before accepting the claim.

What to check

Bodywork and structure

The body is the chassis, so spend most of your time here. Take a torch, a magnet and a mat to lie on.

Inner and outer sills, especially where the rear sill meets the rear wheel arch spat.
Front chassis legs and the front crossmember and valance, plus the jacking points near the A-posts.
A-posts and door fit: sagging doors or poor shut lines can point to rotten sills or pillars.
Floorpans, with the carpets lifted if the seller allows.
Rear spring hangers and the Panhard rod mounting in the rear wheel arch.
Boot floor and spare wheel well, and the area around the fuel tanks.
Door bottoms and the bottom edge of the boot lid, where water sits between skins.

Engine

The XK six is tough if it has been serviced, but rebuilds are not cheap.

Oil pressure of about 40psi at cruising speed when warm.
Some blue smoke and oil use is normal; heavy smoke points to a rebuild.
Oil leaking from the rear crankshaft seal, a common weak point.
Rattling from the top of the engine, which can mean a worn timing chain.
Coolant colour and level: the wrong or weak antifreeze corrodes the alloy head and can lead to overheating.
Temperature in slow traffic, and evidence of any engine rebuild.

Gearbox and drivetrain

Identify which gearbox is fitted before you drive.

Moss gearbox (to September 1965): no synchromesh on first and a slow change are normal, jumping out of gear is not.
All-synchromesh gearbox: should be quiet with a lighter, quicker change.
Overdrive should engage and disengage promptly without slipping or thumping.
Automatic: smooth, positive changes and clean fluid.
Clutch slip under load or judder on take-up, as replacement means removing the engine.
Five-speed conversions: ask who fitted it and for receipts.

Suspension, steering and brakes

The running gear is simple but tired cars feel vague.

Front wishbones, bushes and ball joints for wear.
A wayward rear end can point to a broken Panhard rod or poor mountings.
Movement in the steering column.
Power steering, original or electric, for leaks or loss of assistance.
Brake servo operation and a straight stop.

Interior, trim and electrics

A full retrim is costly, so judge the cabin carefully.

Walnut veneer on the dash, door cappings and other pieces for lifting lacquer and delamination.
Leather for hardening, cracks and splits.
Damp headlining or carpets, and the door and screen seals.
Every gauge, switch and light; note any non-standard wiring.

Paperwork and originality

Provenance has a big effect on desirability.

Chassis, engine and body numbers against the V5C.
A Jaguar Heritage Certificate, which records original colour, trim, build and dispatch dates and destination.
Some cars sold as 3.8s were built on 2.4 or Daimler shells; check the numbers with a club or the certificate.
Photographs and receipts for any restoration, especially structural work.
Full details of any modifications, with who did the work and when.

On the test drive

Start from cold and watch the oil pressure and temperature gauges.
Check the gearbox suits you, especially a Moss box with its slow change.
Try overdrive or automatic changes on the move.
Brake firmly in a straight line and note any pull.
Feel for vagueness or wandering in corners and at speed.
Listen for clonks from the rear axle and suspension over bumps.

Buying at auction

Mk2s and Daimlers appear regularly at UK classic auctions, including regional sales such as Mathewsons. Viewing days are your only chance to inspect the car, so use them well.

What you can check in viewing week

Look underneath with a torch at the sills, chassis legs, spring hangers and floors.
Use a magnet on the sills, wheel arches, door bottoms and lower wings.
Check chassis and engine numbers against the V5C and catalogue.
Check oil and coolant condition and look for leaks.
Read the history file, including old MOTs and any Heritage Certificate.
If start-ups are allowed, listen for rattles and watch oil pressure and smoke.

What you usually cannot do

You usually cannot drive the car, so gearbox, overdrive, clutch and brakes remain unknown.
You usually cannot put it on a lift.
You cannot remove trim or panels to see hidden rust.

Tips

Read the catalogue critically and separate facts from adjectives.
Ask for any claimed 3.8, Coombs or matching numbers status to be backed by documents.
Remember the buyer's premium and VAT on it when setting your limit.
Set a firm limit and stop when you reach it.

What makes one more desirable

Body condition and quality of past restoration work
Engine size: 3.8, then 3.4, then 2.4
Manual with overdrive is generally preferred to automatic
Matching numbers and a Heritage Certificate
Genuine period competition or Coombs history with provenance
Well executed, documented upgrades; poorly documented work counts against a car

This guide does not give values or predict prices.

Selling a Jaguar Mk2 and Daimler 2.5 V8 / V8-250

Buyers know the weak points, so a well presented, honestly described car sells best.

Preparing the car

Clean the underside as well as the paint.
Fix small faults such as gauges, lights or overdrive.
Make sure it starts easily, holds oil pressure and runs cool.

Paperwork

V5C with correct chassis and engine numbers.
Heritage Certificate, or order one.
Restoration photographs and receipts in date order.
Old MOTs and a list of any modifications.

Where to sell

Owners' club classifieds and magazines.
Jaguar specialist dealers.
Classic auctions, including regional sales such as Mathewsons; check seller's fees and terms first.

Writing the description

State model, engine, gearbox and year accurately.
Describe restoration work and modifications honestly, with dates.
Photograph the underside, sills, interior wood and paperwork.

Living with one

Mechanical, body and trim parts are widely available from Jaguar specialists.
Clubs and specialists provide technical advice.
Regular oil changes and correct antifreeze matter for the XK engine.
All versions are old enough for historic vehicle tax and MOT exemption, but substantially modified cars may not qualify, and annual checks are still wise.
Agreed value, limited mileage classic insurance is widely available.

Clubs and registers

Questions people ask

Which Jaguar Mk2 should I buy?

The 3.8 is the most sought-after, but the 3.4 is nearly as quick and often seen as the best all rounder. The best car is usually the one with the soundest body.

What is the difference between the Mk2 and the 240 or 340?

The 240 and 340 of 1967 have slimmer bumpers, vinyl seats and cheaper carpet as standard, the all-synchromesh gearbox, and in the 240's case a more powerful engine. The 3.8 was dropped.

Is the Moss gearbox a problem?

No, it is durable, but it has no synchromesh on first and a slow change. Cars from September 1965 have the easier all-synchromesh gearbox.

Is the Daimler 2.5 V8 a Mk2?

It uses the Mk2 body with a Daimler 2.5 litre V8, a Daimler grille and trim. Body checks are the same as for the Jaguar.

Are restomod Mk2s a good buy?

They can be if the work is well done and fully documented. Check who did it, what was changed and whether original parts were kept.

How many Jaguar Mk2s were made?

About 84,000. The JDHT quotes 83,701 and the JEC 84,180, plus 4,446 240s and about 2,800 340s.

Sources

Checked 20 October 2026.

An independent guide. Not a valuation and not financial advice. Always inspect a car in person or have it inspected before you buy.