Jaguar E-Type buyer's guide
The Jaguar E-Type was unveiled at the Geneva motor show in March 1961 and built at Browns Lane, Coventry, until the mid 1970s. About 72,500 were made across Series 1, Series 1.5, Series 2 and the V12 Series 3, as roadsters, fixed head coupes and 2+2s.
People buy one for the shape, the performance and the club and specialist support behind it. Restoration costs are high, though, and many cars have been rebuilt, converted or imported, so the condition of the structure and the honesty of the history matter more than the shine.
This is a short buying and selling summary for joncosson.com readers buying at a dealer, privately or at an auction such as Mathewsons in North Yorkshire. For the full model history and a longer buying guide, see the Jaguar E-Type archive at jaguaretype.org.
By Jon Cosson · Checked 20 October 2026
At a glance
| Built | 1961 to 1975 (launched at Geneva, March 1961) |
|---|---|
| Numbers made | About 72,500, all series and body styles |
| Body styles | Roadster (open two-seater), fixed head coupe, 2+2 coupe from 1966 |
| Construction | Steel monocoque centre section with a tubular front subframe carrying the engine and front suspension |
| Six-cylinder engines | XK twin-cam straight six: 3.8 litres to 1964, 4.2 litres from October 1964 |
| V12 engine | 5.3-litre V12 in the Series 3 from 1971 |
| Gearbox | Four-speed manual (Moss box on 3.8 cars, all-synchromesh from the 4.2); automatic option on 2+2 and Series 3 |
| Suspension and brakes | Independent all round, disc brakes all round with inboard rear discs |
| Maker and factory | Jaguar Cars, Browns Lane, Coventry |
| Designer | Malcolm Sayer, with Sir William Lyons |
| Clubs | Jaguar Enthusiasts' Club, Jaguar Drivers' Club |
The Jaguar E-Type in brief
The E-Type drew on Jaguar's D-Type racing car, also shaped by Malcolm Sayer, an aerodynamicist from the aircraft industry. It launched with the 3.8-litre XK engine, three SU carburettors and a Moss gearbox with no synchromesh on first gear. The earliest cars had external bonnet locks and a flat floor, both changed within the first year or so.
In October 1964 the 4.2-litre engine arrived with more torque, an all-synchromesh Jaguar gearbox, better brakes and more comfortable seats. The longer 2+2 coupe followed in 1966 with occasional rear seats and an automatic option. In 1967 the glass headlamp covers were dropped and rocker switches replaced toggles; these transitional cars are usually called Series 1.5, an unofficial name.
The Series 2 of late 1968 was shaped largely by US safety and emissions rules: open headlamps, a larger front air intake, bigger lights mounted below the bumpers and improved cooling with twin electric fans. US cars were detuned, while UK cars kept triple SU carburettors.
The Series 3 of March 1971 used Jaguar's new 5.3-litre V12, with power steering as standard, flared wheel arches and a slatted grille. Only the roadster and 2+2 were made, both on the longer wheelbase. Most E-Types were exported, mainly to the US, which is why many UK cars today are returned imports.
Versions to know
| Version | Years | What to know |
|---|---|---|
| Series 1 3.8 | 1961 to 1964 | Roadster and fixed head coupe. Moss gearbox without synchromesh on first. The earliest flat floor and outside bonnet lock cars are the most sought after by collectors. |
| Series 1 4.2 | 1964 to 1967 | Same looks with more torque, all-synchromesh gearbox and improved brakes and seats. Often seen as the best balance of looks and usability. |
| Series 1 2+2 | 1966 to 1967 | Longer wheelbase and taller roof with occasional rear seats. More practical, with an automatic option. |
| Series 1.5 | 1967 to 1968 | Unofficial name for transitional cars with open headlamps and rocker switches, and twin Stromberg carburettors on US cars. |
| Series 2 | 1968 to 1971 | Larger grille opening, bigger lights below the bumpers, better cooling. 4.2 six in all three body styles. |
| Series 3 V12 | 1971 to 1975 | 5.3 V12, power steering, flared arches, roadster or 2+2 only. More of a grand tourer than a sports car. |
Pros and cons
| Pros | Cons |
|---|---|
|
|
Myths and realities
A freshly restored car needs no further checks.
Restoration quality varies widely. A shiny car with thick underseal and no invoices can hide rot or poor structural repairs.
Dry-state US imports are always rust free.
Many have less rot, but cars still rust, a long sea crossing can add corrosion, and conversions to right-hand drive vary in quality.
Low oil pressure at idle means a worn engine.
Pressure on a warm XK engine is lower at tickover. Judge it at about 3,000rpm, where around 40psi or more is the usual guide.
What to check
Bodywork and structure
The centre section is the structure, so rust here is a strength problem. Check this before anything else.
- Sills, especially where they join the floor; repairs here are structural.
- Floor pans, particularly on roadsters, and the boot floor.
- Rear wheel arches, inner arches and the rear valance.
- Door bottoms and the bonnet seams behind the chrome trim.
- Front subframe tubes and engine frame mountings for rust, cracks or crash damage.
- Thick fresh underseal or heavy filler, which can hide rot; use a magnet on lower panels.
- Panel gaps and doors or bonnet that resist closing, which can point to structural rust or poor repair.
Engine
The XK six is robust but needs regular care, and the V12 is sensitive to cooling neglect.
- Oil pressure when fully warm, around 40psi or more at 3,000rpm.
- Knocks, bottom end rumble or a rattling timing chain once warm.
- Blue smoke under load or heavy smoke at start-up.
- Oil leaks, especially from the rear crankshaft seal, which needs the engine out to fix.
- White sludge under the oil filler cap or oil in the coolant, signs of head gasket trouble.
- Temperature gauge after idling for a few minutes, and that the cooling fans cut in.
- On a V12, harsh running after overheating, the condition of the many coolant hoses and evidence of regular anti-freeze changes.
Gearbox and drivetrain
Know which gearbox the car should have before you drive it.
- Moss gearbox on 3.8 cars: noisy and slow, with no synchromesh on first; check selection of first and reverse.
- Later all-synchromesh box: weak synchromesh on second and third, especially when cold.
- Automatics: smooth changes, no slipping, and clean, red fluid.
- Clonks on and off the throttle from worn universal joints, and whine from the differential.
- Clutch slip or judder; replacement means removing the engine and gearbox.
- Five-speed conversions: ask what unit is fitted and who fitted it, and check the originals are kept.
Suspension, steering and brakes
The independent rear suspension sits in a steel cage under the car and is often neglected.
- Rear suspension cage and its rubber mountings for rust or perished rubber.
- Differential oil leaking onto the inboard rear discs, which causes brake imbalance.
- Wear in rear hub bearings and lower pivots; creaking can mean corroded pivots.
- Front wishbone balljoints and bushes, and play at the steering wheel rim.
- Handbrake seized or not holding.
- Wire wheels for loose or damaged spokes and worn splines.
Electrics and instruments
Look closely at cars converted from US specification.
- All gauges working, particularly oil pressure and temperature.
- Cooling fans cutting in on their own as the engine warms.
- Extended or spliced wiring, moved gauges and loose connections behind the dashboard, which are a fire risk.
- Lights, indicators, wipers and switchgear all working.
Interior and trim
Trim is available but a full retrim costs money.
- Seat condition and whether the seats are original; ask for the originals if modern seats are fitted.
- Roadster hood, frame and seals for leaks or tears.
- Coupe and 2+2 headlining, carpets and door trims for water damage.
Paperwork and originality
Identity and history decide much of a car's appeal.
- Chassis, engine and body numbers against the V5C and any Jaguar Heritage certificate.
- Whether the car was originally left-hand drive, and the quality of any conversion.
- Whether a roadster started life as a coupe.
- Whether the engine and gearbox are the originals.
- Restoration invoices, photographs and the names of the people who did the work.
On the test drive
- Start the engine from cold and watch the oil pressure and temperature as it warms.
- Check the gearbox through all gears, up and down, warm and cold.
- Feel for wallowing, a skittish rear or wander, which point to worn dampers, bushes or bearings.
- Brake firmly in a straight line and check the car does not pull.
- After the drive, let it idle and watch the temperature gauge and check for new leaks.
Buying at auction
E-Types appear at most major UK classic sales and at regional auctions such as Mathewsons. Viewing time is short, so plan what you will check.
What you can check in viewing week
- Look underneath with a torch at the sills, floors, rear suspension cage and front subframe.
- Use a magnet on the sills, lower doors, rear arches and lower bonnet for filler.
- Match chassis, engine and body numbers to the V5C, the catalogue and any Heritage certificate.
- Check oil and coolant, and look for leaks and amateur wiring.
- If start-ups are allowed, listen for knocks, look for smoke and check the oil pressure gauge.
What you usually cannot do
- You usually cannot drive the car, so the gearbox, brakes and handling remain unknown.
- You usually cannot put it on a lift.
- You cannot see inside sills or behind trim, or run the car long enough to judge cooling.
Tips
- Read the catalogue critically: check claims of matching numbers, original right-hand drive or a full restoration against the paperwork.
- Remember the buyer's premium and other fees on top of the hammer price, and read the terms.
- Set your limit before the sale, allowing for likely work, and stick to it.
- Arrange transport home and insurance before you bid.
What makes one more desirable
- Originality, including matching numbers and the original body style and drive side.
- Early 3.8 cars, especially flat floor and outside bonnet lock examples.
- Body style: roadsters and fixed head coupes are generally more sought after than 2+2s.
- Factory right-hand drive UK cars, confirmed by Jaguar Heritage.
- Documented history and well recorded restorations by known specialists.
- Sympathetic upgrades such as better cooling or brakes, with original parts kept.
This guide does not give values or predict prices.
Selling a Jaguar E-Type
Buyers of E-Types are well informed, so an honest, well documented car sells more easily.
Preparing the car
- Clean the underside as well as the paint; buyers will look with a torch.
- Fix small faults such as gauges, lights or fans that put buyers off.
- Have the car serviced so it starts, idles and stays cool.
Paperwork
- V5C with correct chassis and engine numbers.
- Jaguar Heritage certificate, or order one before selling.
- Restoration invoices, photographs and MOT history in date order.
- Details of any conversion or upgrade, with dates and who did the work.
Where to sell
- Club classified adverts, read by knowledgeable buyers.
- Specialist E-Type dealers, by sale or part exchange.
- Classic auctions, including regional sales such as Mathewsons; check seller's commission and entry terms first.
Writing the description
- State the series, engine, body style, gearbox and original drive side.
- Say whether the numbers match and what the Heritage certificate shows.
- Describe structural work honestly: what, when and by whom.
- Photograph the sills, floors, subframe and engine bay as well as the outside.
Living with one
- Parts supply is good, and there is a wide network of E-Type specialists.
- Servicing is at least yearly; specialist carburettor and cooling system set-up helps reliability.
- All E-Types are over 40 years old and can be eligible for historic vehicle tax; unchanged cars may be MOT exempt, but an annual check is still wise.
- Classic insurance with agreed value and limited mileage is widely available; declare modifications.
Clubs and registers
Questions people ask
Which E-Type should I buy?
For regular driving, a 4.2 Series 1 or a Series 2 with the all-synchromesh gearbox is the usual advice. Early 3.8 cars appeal to collectors, while the Series 3 V12 suits touring. Buy on condition and history first.
What are the main problems with an E-Type?
Rust in the sills, floors and rear arches, a rusty front subframe or rear suspension cage, rear crankshaft oil leaks, overheating (especially on the V12) and poor quality restorations or conversions.
What is a Series 1.5 E-Type?
An unofficial name for cars built in 1967 and 1968 with Series 1 bodies but open headlamps, rocker switches and, on US cars, revised carburettors.
Is an E-Type a good first classic?
It can be if you budget for running costs and buy a well documented car, ideally after an inspection by a specialist. A cheap project is rarely a good first classic.
How do I check an E-Type's originality?
Compare chassis, engine and body numbers with the V5C and a Jaguar Heritage certificate, which records the original specification, colour and trim.
Where can I read more about the E-Type?
The Jaguar E-Type archive at jaguaretype.org has a full history and a longer buying guide.
Sources
- Hagerty UK: Jaguar E-Type buyer's guide
- Octane: Jaguar E-type (1961 to 1974) buying guide, history and review
- Classic & Sports Car: Buyer's guide, Jaguar E-type S1, S1.5 and S2
- Classic Car Hub: Jaguar E-Type buyer's guide
- E-Type UK: Jaguar E-Type buying guide
- E-Type UK: History of the E-Type
- Lancaster Insurance: 60th anniversary of the E-Type Jaguar
- Pirelli: Jaguar E-type, celebrating a 60-year-old icon
- Coventry Telegraph: the history of the Jaguar E-Type
- Old Cars Weekly: Jaguars reunited after 55 years
Checked 20 October 2026.
An independent guide. Not a valuation and not financial advice. Always inspect a car in person or have it inspected before you buy.