Bentley Continental GT (first generation) buyer's guide

A very low mileage Continental is the safest buy.

Published guides agree that low-use cars often give more trouble than regularly driven ones. Batteries, seals, air suspension and brakes all suffer from standing. A well-maintained car with steady use is usually the better bet.

It is really just a Volkswagen underneath, so it is cheap to run.

Some parts are shared with the Phaeton, which helps, but many components are Bentley specific and the labour involved in reaching parts on a W12 is considerable. Plan for luxury car running costs.

The W12 is fragile.

The engine has a good reputation, including at high mileages, when serviced on time. The weak points are ancillaries such as coil packs, cooling components and sensors, plus the rare head gasket failure.

All Speed models have carbon-ceramic brakes.

Carbon-ceramics were standard on the Supersports but an option on other later cars. Check what is fitted, because replacement costs differ greatly between steel and ceramic systems.

Bodywork and structure

Corrosion is uncommon on the steel body, so the main concerns are accident damage, repaint quality and stone chips. Panels are complex shapes, which makes good repairs slow and costly.

• Look along each side in good light for ripples, uneven panel gaps and mismatched paint, which point to accident repair.
• Check the bonnet leading edge, front bumper and headlamp area for stone chips, as the flat nose collects them.
• Inspect dark paint for swirl marks from heavy polishing.
• Look for parking dents and scuffs on bumper corners, common on cars used mainly in town.
• Check headlamp lenses for clouding and glass for delamination, seen as clouding at the edges.
• On a Flying Spur, check the electric boot lid opens and closes properly.

Engine

The W12 is well regarded but needs regular oil changes and a healthy cooling system. Access is tight, so many routine jobs mean significant labour.

• Listen for a lumpy idle or feel for a misfire, which can point to a failing coil pack. The front coil packs are only reached by removing the inlet manifold, so check the history for recent replacement.
• Treat any engine warning light as a reason to have the fault codes read before buying. Sensors can be very hard to reach.
• Check under the car and around the engine for oil leaks and staining, and watch for oil smoke on start-up.
• Blue smoke can point to worn turbochargers, which rely on clean, regularly changed oil.
• Check coolant level and condition and look for staining around the radiators and hoses. Water pump or thermostat failure can cause overheating.
• Watch the temperature gauge on the drive; published guides say it should sit around 80 to 90 degrees.
• Head gasket failure is rare but expensive, as repair requires engine removal. Mayonnaise in the oil, white smoke or coolant loss are warnings.

Gearbox and drivetrain

The ZF six-speed automatic and four-wheel drive are generally robust. Faults more often come from electrics than from the hardware itself.

• Check the gearbox selects drive and reverse promptly from cold with no delay or clunk.
• Feel for jerky downshifts, flare between gears or slow engagement, all of which need a specialist's opinion.
• Try the steering wheel paddles and the manual mode to make sure they respond.
• Ask whether the gearbox fluid has ever been changed, and when.
• Look for fluid leaks at the gearbox and around the transfer and differential housings.

Suspension, steering, brakes and tyres

Air suspension, very large brakes and heavy wheels mean this area accounts for a large share of running costs. Check each part carefully.

• Look at the ride height when you arrive and again after the car has stood; a corner that has sunk overnight points to an air leak.
• Listen for the suspension compressor running for long periods, which suggests a leak or a tired compressor.
• Check the damper settings change when you select different modes, and that the adjustable damping warning lights stay off.
• Ask whether any air struts have been replaced and whether the system was properly coded and calibrated with specialist software afterwards.
• Check the front discs for a pronounced lip at the outer edge, a sign of heavy wear. The front discs are very large and heavy.
• Identify whether steel or carbon-ceramic brakes are fitted, and check ceramic discs for cracks or chips. Ceramics last longer but are not lifetime parts.
• Check the electronic parking brake applies and releases properly.
• Inspect wheels for kerb damage and corrosion; replacement alloys are expensive. Be wary of aftermarket wheels, which can spoil the ride.
• Confirm the tyre pressure monitoring works; sensor batteries typically last around five years.

Electrics and infotainment

Electrical problems are the most common source of trouble. Much of it comes back to battery health and water reaching control modules and wiring.

• The car has two batteries, a main one for systems and a smaller starting battery. Weak batteries cause random faults, especially on cars that stand unused.
• Ask whether the car has been kept on a battery conditioner, and when the batteries were last replaced.
• Check the front footwells, especially the passenger side, for damp carpets or a musty smell. Important wiring and modules sit low in the car.
• Control modules under the scuttle can be affected by water, with symptoms such as windows lowering themselves.
• Work through the central touchscreen: navigation, audio, telephone, climate and vehicle settings. Older systems are slow but should work.
• Check the parking sensors and any reversing aids, keyless entry and the soft-close doors where fitted.
• Have a specialist plug in diagnostic equipment and read stored faults across all modules, not just the engine.

Convertible roof (GTC)

The GTC's powered fabric hood has no widely reported inherent fault, but hood, hydraulic and control faults can all be expensive to resolve.

• Operate the hood several times with the car stationary; it should move smoothly without pausing, straining or warnings.
• Check the fabric for rips, wear on the folds and discolouration. A replacement hood is expensive.
• Inspect the heated glass rear window for cracks, separation and working heating elements.
• Look inside the boot and cabin for signs of water leaks, staining or damp carpets after rain.
• Look for hydraulic fluid stains in the boot or around the hood mechanism.

Interior and trim

The interior is a large part of the appeal, and restoring neglected hide and veneer is costly.

• Check seat bolsters for wear, creasing, cracks and scuffs from belt buckles, jeans rivets and jewellery.
• Look at the headlining for sagging, a known issue on the coupe.
• Check the wood veneers for cracked lacquer, lifting or sun damage.
• Inspect the carpets and mats for wear and any water staining.
• Make sure all trim matches the build specification and has not been swapped from another car.

Paperwork, service history and originality

On a car this complex, the history file is the best guide to future costs. Back up every claim with paperwork and independent checks.

• Look for a full service history with dated invoices from a Bentley dealer or established specialist, not just stamps in the book.
• Check the invoices for coil pack, battery, air suspension, brake and cooling work, and ask what has been done recently.
• Ask whether all manufacturer recall work has been completed; a Bentley dealer can confirm this.
• Check MOT history online for recurring advisories on brakes, tyres, suspension and leaks, and for mileage consistency.
• Compare the VIN and engine number with the V5C, and count the recorded keepers. Many cars have had several owners.
• Run a history check for unpaid finance, insurance write-off categories, theft records and plate changes.
• Be cautious of any car with a write-off record, and ask for full details of the damage and repair.
• Check the build specification against the car, particularly for Mulliner, Diamond Series, Speed or Supersports claims.

What are the common problems with a first generation Bentley Continental GT?

The most common issues are electrical faults linked to batteries and water reaching modules, coil pack failures causing misfires, air suspension leaks, heavy brake and tyre wear, and cooling system faults. The engine and gearbox are generally robust when maintained.

Is the Bentley Continental GT reliable?

Published guides describe the mechanical side as reliable, including at high mileages, if the car is used and serviced. Cars that stand for long periods tend to develop more faults, especially electrical and suspension problems.

Which first generation Continental is best to buy?

It depends on use. Later cars from the 2007 update have improved steering and refinement, Speed models offer more power and a firmer chassis, and the Supersports is the most sought after. Condition and history matter more than the version.

What should I look for when buying a Continental GTC?

Check everything you would on a coupe, then operate the hood several times, inspect the fabric for rips and discolouration, look for water leaks and hydraulic stains, and check the heated rear window.

Why is the history file so important on a Continental GT?

It shows whether coil packs, batteries, suspension and brakes have been dealt with, whether the engine has had regular oil changes, and whether recall work is complete. Without it, assume work will be needed.

Should I check finance and write-off records on a Continental GT?

Yes. Run a history check for unpaid finance, write-off categories, theft and plate changes, and compare the VIN with the V5C. Many cars have had several owners.

Is a first generation Continental a good first classic?

It can be if you budget realistically. It is a complex modern luxury car rather than a simple classic, so ownership relies on a good specialist and steady funds for maintenance.