Alfa Romeo Spider (105/115) buyer's guide

The Alfa Romeo Spider is a small two-seat Italian roadster with an all-alloy twin-cam engine, a five-speed gearbox and disc brakes all round. Styled and built by Pininfarina, it stayed in production for 27 years, from the roundtail Duetto of 1966 to the last Series 4 cars of 1993, and more than 124,000 were made. Its appearance in the 1967 film The Graduate made it one of the best known sports cars of its time.

People buy Spiders because they are light and rewarding to drive, with an engine that likes to rev and a gearbox that is a pleasure to use. The long run means there is a version for most tastes, from the delicate roundtail to the better equipped Series 4, and UK specialist support is strong. The steel monocoque rusts readily, however, almost every car has been repaired at some point, and many UK cars are left-hand drive imports, so knowing what you are looking at matters.

This guide is for buyers looking at a Spider at a dealer, privately or at an auction such as Mathewsons in North Yorkshire, and for owners preparing to sell. It covers what to check and how to judge a car, not how to repair one: where work is needed, an Alfa specialist can advise.

By Jon Cosson · Checked 20 October 2026

At a glance

Built	1966 to 1993, in four series
Numbers made	About 124,000 across all series
Body style	Two-seat open roadster with folding hood; factory hardtop offered but rare
Construction	Steel monocoque on a shortened version of the 105-series Giulia floorpan
Engines	All-alloy twin-cam four-cylinder: 1290cc, 1570cc, 1779cc and 1962cc
Fuelling	Twin twin-choke carburettors on most European cars; SPICA mechanical injection on US cars from 1969; Bosch electronic injection on later cars
Gearbox	Five-speed manual; three-speed automatic on some US Series 4 cars only
Brakes and steering	Discs all round; steering box rather than a rack, with power assistance on Series 4
Designer and builder	Pininfarina, which also built the cars near Turin for Alfa Romeo
Right-hand drive	Factory RHD cars until 1978; later UK cars are LHD or UK conversions
Club	Alfa Romeo Owners Club (UK), with its Giulia 105 Register

The Alfa Romeo Spider (105/115 series) in brief

The Spider replaced the earlier Giulia Spider, the 101-series car whose design dated back to the Giulietta Spider of the 1950s. The new car arrived in 1966 as the Spider 1600, using the 1570cc twin-cam and the running gear of the 105-series Giulia saloon on a shortened floorpan. Its name, Duetto, came from a public naming competition, and adverts now use it for all the early roundtail cars.

In 1968 the 1600 gave way to the 1750 Spider Veloce with a 1779cc engine and improved brakes, and the cheaper 1300 Spider Junior joined the range. From 1969 US-bound cars received SPICA mechanical fuel injection. These early cars are the most sought after and also the most expensive to restore, because roundtail panels and trim cost more.

For 1970 the Series 2 brought the cut-off Kamm tail, known in Italy as Coda Tronca, and a steeper windscreen. This shape, with a larger boot, lasted until the end of production. The 2000 Spider Veloce, with a 1962cc engine, replaced the 1750 in 1971. The 1600 Junior arrived in 1972, while the 1300 Junior was dropped in 1977.

The Series 3 of 1982 to 1983 was largely a Series 2 with large black rubber bumpers and a rubber rear spoiler, often called the Aerodinamica. The Quadrifoglio Verde of 1986 added plastic side skirts and spoilers. Mechanical variable valve timing arrived on the 2-litre in the early 1980s, and fuelling depends on market: some Series 3 cars have twin Dell'Orto carburettors, others Bosch injection. The Graduate, a simpler US special edition, was sold in North America from 1985.

Pininfarina restyled the car once more for the Series 4, launched in 1989 to 1990. Body-coloured bumpers replaced the rubber items, the ducktail made way for a cleaner boot lid, and Bosch Motronic engine management was fitted, with power steering, electric windows and, in some markets, catalytic converters, air conditioning and an airbag. The 1600 was dropped in 1992 and the 2-litre ran on until the end of production in 1993, with a final US Commemorative Edition sold as a 1994 model.

In the UK, steering position complicates the picture. Factory right-hand drive Spiders were built until 1978, when stricter type approval rules ended them. After that the Spider came to the UK as a special-order left-hand drive car or as an import converted to right-hand drive here, notably by the Surrey dealer Bell & Colvill. Many cars have since been imported from the US and mainland Europe, so original RHD cars, UK conversions and LHD imports are all on sale side by side.

Versions to know

Version	Years	What to know
Series 1 Spider 1600 (Duetto)	1966 to 1967	The original roundtail with plastic headlamp covers and a 1570cc twin-cam on twin carburettors. The purest shape and the one most collectors look for. Roundtail panels and trim cost more than later parts.
Series 1 Spider 1750 Veloce	1968 to 1969	1779cc engine and improved brakes. US cars from 1969 have SPICA mechanical injection; European cars use twin carburettors.
Series 1 Spider 1300 Junior	1968 to 1969	Entry-level roundtail with a 1290cc engine and simpler trim. Less often seen than the 1600 and 1750.
Series 2 1750 Spider Veloce	From 1970	First of the Kamm tail cars with the 1750 engine, before the 2000 took over as the main model.
Series 2 2000 Spider Veloce	1971 to 1982	1962cc engine and a long production run, so this is the Spider buyers meet most often. The interior was revised during the run. US cars used SPICA injection.
Series 2 1300 and 1600 Junior	1970 to 1977 (1300) and 1972 to 1981 (1600)	Kamm tail Juniors with smaller engines. Lighter feeling and revvy; the 1600 gives most of the character of the larger cars.
Niki Lauda edition	1978	Limited edition based on the 2000 Veloce with special stripes and spoiler. Stripes and spoilers are easy to add, so identity needs checking.
Series 3 2000 and 1600 (Aerodinamica)	1982 to 1983 until 1989	Large black rubber bumpers and a rubber rear spoiler, with a new dashboard in 1987. In the UK these are LHD imports or UK conversions.
Series 3 Quadrifoglio Verde	1986 to 1989	Range-topper with plastic side skirts and extra spoilers. Same 2-litre engine tune as the standard car. The skirts can hide sill condition.
Series 4 2000 and 1600	1989 to 1990 until 1993 (1600 to 1992)	Body-coloured bumpers, a cleaner tail, Bosch Motronic, power steering and electric windows. The best equipped Spider and a popular choice as a usable classic. Some trim is now hard to find.
Right-hand drive conversions	1978 onwards	LHD cars converted in the UK, notably by Bell & Colvill, using factory parts. Quality varies, so ask who did the work and when.

Pros and cons

Pros	Cons
The all-alloy twin-cam is responsive and enjoyable, and well understood by UK Alfa specialists. A five-speed gearbox and four-wheel disc brakes from 1966 make even early cars usable on modern roads. A 27-year run and parts shared with other Alfas keep many mechanical parts readily available. Body panels, including sills, floor sections and wings, are made by specialists for most versions. The range is wide, from the roundtail Duetto to the better equipped Series 4, so there is a version for most budgets and tastes. An active owners' club and a dedicated 105 register offer help with parts and technical questions.	The steel monocoque rusts in the sills, floors, crossmember, chassis legs and spare wheel well, and poor past repairs are common. Panels are welded on rather than bolted, so body repairs are costly and restoration of a neglected car can cost more than the finished car is worth. Most UK cars are LHD imports or RHD conversions; original factory RHD cars are a small minority. Engines are easily swapped, so many cars do not have the engine they left the factory with. Aluminium engines suffer if the coolant has not been kept up, leading to corrosion, overheating and head gasket failure. Second gear synchromesh wears, and gearchanges can be notchy when cold. Series 3 and 4 interior trim and switchgear can be hard to find.

Pros

Cons

The all-alloy twin-cam is responsive and enjoyable, and well understood by UK Alfa specialists.
A five-speed gearbox and four-wheel disc brakes from 1966 make even early cars usable on modern roads.
A 27-year run and parts shared with other Alfas keep many mechanical parts readily available.
Body panels, including sills, floor sections and wings, are made by specialists for most versions.
The range is wide, from the roundtail Duetto to the better equipped Series 4, so there is a version for most budgets and tastes.
An active owners' club and a dedicated 105 register offer help with parts and technical questions.

The steel monocoque rusts in the sills, floors, crossmember, chassis legs and spare wheel well, and poor past repairs are common.
Panels are welded on rather than bolted, so body repairs are costly and restoration of a neglected car can cost more than the finished car is worth.
Most UK cars are LHD imports or RHD conversions; original factory RHD cars are a small minority.
Engines are easily swapped, so many cars do not have the engine they left the factory with.
Aluminium engines suffer if the coolant has not been kept up, leading to corrosion, overheating and head gasket failure.
Second gear synchromesh wears, and gearchanges can be notchy when cold.
Series 3 and 4 interior trim and switchgear can be hard to find.

Myths and realities

A US import from a sunny state will be rust free.

Cars from dry states such as California or Arizona can be in better order, but many have been restored and not all imports came from dry areas. Every car needs the same check underneath.

Duetto was the official model name of the first Spider.

The name came from a public naming competition and is used loosely for the roundtail cars, which came as the 1600, the 1750 Veloce and the 1300 Junior. Engines are easily swapped, so check what the car really is rather than relying on the name.

An oily-looking engine is a failing engine.

Twin-cam engines commonly seep a little oil and the block can look damp. It only matters if levels drop, leaks get worse or the oil is mixed with coolant.

A right-hand drive Spider is always a factory car.

Factory RHD production ended in 1978. A later RHD car, including any Series 3 or Series 4, is a conversion, and earlier RHD cars may be conversions too. Ask for evidence either way.

What to check

Bodywork and structure

Rust is the biggest concern and is usually costlier to put right than mechanical faults. The sills are vital to the stiffness of an open body, so bring a torch, a magnet and a mat.

Sills: they are built in layers (outer, middle and inner). Look for bubbling at the sill seams and where the wings meet the sills, and for new outer sills fitted over old metal.
Doors that are hard to shut, or panel gaps that change when the car is jacked on one side, can point to weak sills.
Front crossmember under the radiator, which is thin and rusts, plus the chassis legs running back from the engine bay.
Floorpans from inside under the carpets and from below, and the jacking points.
Spare wheel well and boot floor, including the metal around the towing eye mounting.
Wheel arches front and rear, the inner rear arches and the area behind the rear wheels.
Series 3 Quadrifoglio Verde and Series 4 cars: plastic side skirts and sill covers hide the sills, so look underneath and ask what lies behind them.
Thick underseal or fresh paint underneath can hide corrosion and repairs. Tap and probe gently, and ask for photographs of any restoration.

Engine

The twin-cam is tough when maintained, but it suffers badly from neglected coolant. Ask for a cold start.

Coolant should be clean with proper corrosion inhibitor. Lack of inhibitor erodes the aluminium castings and silts the radiator, leading to overheating and head gasket failure.
Check the oil filler and dipstick for a creamy mixture and the coolant for oil, both signs of head gasket trouble.
Light oil seepage from the block is common. Heavy leaks or a dropping level need explaining.
Blue smoke under hard acceleration or on the over-run suggests wear in the bores or valve guides.
Listen for timing chain rattle, especially when cold, and for knocking from the bottom end under load.
Check oil pressure warm at idle and on the move; a low reading needs explaining.
Look at the low finned sump for dents and damage from grounding.
Confirm the engine is the correct type for the car. Engines are interchangeable, and a different engine size from the one the car left the factory with is a common find.
US cars with SPICA injection need a specialist who knows the system. Many have been converted to carburettors, which affects originality.

Gearbox and drivetrain

The five-speed gearbox is a highlight when healthy, but synchromesh wear is common.

Change briskly into second and third, hot and cold. Crunching, especially into second, means worn synchromesh; a notchy change when cold is normal for the car.
Listen for bearing noise in neutral that quietens when the clutch is pressed.
Clutch slip under load, or judder when pulling away.
Vibration or clonking on take-up can point to a worn propshaft centre bearing or perished rubber coupling.
Rear axle: listen for whine or rumble that rises with speed, and look for oil leaks from the axle casing and pinion.

Suspension, steering and brakes

Front wishbones and a well located live rear axle give the Spider its handling. Worn bushes are the main issue.

Knocks over bumps usually mean worn bushes, which are common.
Check the car sits level, with no sagging at the rear.
Steering is by box, not rack. Excess free play or stiffness points to wear in the steering box or linkage.
Brakes should stop straight with a firm pedal that does not creep down under steady pressure.
Rear calipers often seize because the rear brakes do little work; look for uneven disc wear and drag.
The handbrake uses small shoes inside the rear disc. It is never strong, but it should hold; check the cables are secure.
RHD cars: the brake system is more complex, with a cross-linkage operating the master cylinder on the left and different servo arrangements. Check the pedal feel and for leaks or chafed pipes.

Electrics and instruments

Spider electrics are generally simple, but age, poor earths and tired switches cause faults.

Test every function: lights, indicators, hazards, wipers, heater fan, horn and the electric fan where fitted.
Check that the temperature, oil pressure and fuel gauges read sensibly.
Later cars have electric windows: check they work on both sides at a reasonable speed.
Look behind the dashboard and around the fuse box for brittle wiring, scorched connectors and amateur additions.
On a conversion, check that all RHD switchgear and the speedometer work correctly.

Interior, hood and trim

Trim changed a lot across the series. Early and Series 2 parts are well supported, while some Series 3 and 4 items are scarce.

Hood: check it fits well around the door windows and windscreen, folds neatly behind the seats and can be raised by one person.
The plastic rear window should be clear and flexible; it can crack if folded carelessly or in cold weather.
Factory hardtops are rare; if one is included, check its fit, seals and fixings.
Damp carpets or rusty seat runners point to leaks from the hood, door seals or windscreen, and possible floor rot.
Series 3 and 4 switchgear and some trim items are hard to find, which matters on an incomplete car.

Paperwork and originality

With so many imports, conversions and engine swaps, the paperwork is part of the car.

Check the chassis number on the car against the V5C, and the engine number against any records.
Confirm what the car is: roundtail or Kamm tail, engine size, original market and steering position. The bulkhead build plate and chassis number help here.
For an import, ask for the import paperwork, the date it was first registered in the UK and where it lived before.
For an RHD car, find out whether it is a factory car or a conversion, and if converted, who did it and when.
Look for receipts and photographs of structural work, especially sills, floors and the crossmember.
For special editions such as the Niki Lauda car or a Quadrifoglio Verde, ask the club register what can be confirmed.

On the test drive

Start from cold if possible, watching for smoke and listening for chain rattle as the engine warms.
Drive the car hard, then let it idle for a while to check it does not overheat or boil.
Change gear briskly, cold and warm, especially into second, and check reverse.
Feel for steering play or vagueness, and for knocks from the suspension over poor surfaces.
Brake firmly on a clear straight road: the car should stop straight and the pedal should stay firm.
With the hood up, listen for rumbling from the rear axle or knocking from the propshaft.
Notice how much the scuttle shakes over bumps; more than mild shake suggests weak sills.

Buying at auction

Spiders appear regularly at UK classic sales, including regional auctions such as Mathewsons in North Yorkshire. You will have less time and access than in a private sale, so use the viewing days well.

What you can check in viewing week

Look underneath with a torch at the sills, floors, jacking points, front crossmember, chassis legs and spare wheel well, ideally lying on a mat.
Use a magnet on the sills, wheel arches, door bottoms and valances for filler.
Check the chassis number and engine number against the V5C and the catalogue description.
Open the bonnet: look at the oil and coolant, check for oil and water mixing, and look for leaks and amateur wiring.
Note the steering position and look for signs of a conversion, then check whether the catalogue says factory RHD or converted.
Read every document in the history file, including import papers, old MOT certificates and receipts.
If start-ups are allowed, listen for rattles and knocks, watch for smoke and check the oil pressure gauge reads.

What you usually cannot do

You usually cannot drive the car, so gearbox synchromesh, axle noise, steering and brakes remain unknown.
You usually cannot put the car on a lift, so a full underside check is not possible.
You cannot see inside the sills or behind plastic side skirts and sill covers.
You often cannot run the engine long enough to judge cooling when hot.

Tips

Read the catalogue critically. Words such as restored, rebuilt or recommissioned mean little without receipts and dates. Notice what is not said, such as no mention of sills or of the steering position.
Check claims about engine size, original market and factory RHD status against the paperwork, and be cautious where they cannot be supported.
Remember there will be a buyer's premium and possibly other fees on top of the hammer price; read the terms before you bid.
Set your limit before the sale, allowing for likely work, and stick to it.
Arrange transport home before you bid. Do not assume a car bought unseen on the road is roadworthy, and arrange insurance before you move it.

What makes one more desirable

Structural condition comes first: a car with documented, quality sill and floor work is easier to sell than a freshly painted car with no evidence.
Series 1 roundtail cars, especially the 1600 Duetto and 1750 Veloce, are the most sought after shapes.
Original factory right-hand drive cars are a small minority in the UK and attract particular interest when their status can be proved.
The correct engine for the car's specification matters to many buyers, given how often engines have been swapped.
Well documented UK conversions by known firms are generally preferred to undocumented ones.
Originality of the fuelling system matters to some buyers, since many US SPICA cars have been converted to carburettors.

This guide does not give values or predict prices.

Selling a Alfa Romeo Spider (105/115 series)

With buyers wary of rust, engine swaps and conversions, an honestly described and well documented Spider stands out.

Preparing the car

Clean the car underneath as well as on top; serious buyers will look at the sills and floors with a torch.
Fix small faults that put buyers off, such as non-working lights, gauges or electric windows, using a specialist where needed.
Have the car serviced, with fresh coolant and inhibitor, so it starts, idles and drives well.
Make sure the hood fits, seals and folds properly, and that the rear window is clear.

Paperwork

V5C in your name with the correct chassis and engine details.
Receipts and photographs for structural and major mechanical work.
Import papers and the car's history before it came to the UK, where relevant.
Evidence of factory RHD status, or details of who carried out a conversion and when.

Where to sell

The Alfa Romeo Owners Club classifieds, where buyers know the model.
Alfa specialists, by sale or part exchange.
Classic car auctions, including regional sales such as Mathewsons, after checking the seller's commission and entry terms.

Writing the description

State the year, series, tail type, engine size, fuelling, steering position and whether the car is a factory RHD car, a conversion or LHD.
Say whether the engine is the original type for the car.
Be honest about structural work: what was done, when and by whom.
Photograph the sills, floors, crossmember, spare wheel well and engine bay as well as the outside.

Living with one

UK specialists supply mechanical parts, body panels, hoods and trim for most versions; roundtail parts and some Series 3 and 4 trim cost more or are harder to find.
The aluminium engine needs proper coolant with corrosion inhibitor, renewed at the recommended intervals.
Regular use suits the car better than long periods of storage; short trips and long rests are hard on it.
LHD is workable on UK roads given the car's small size, but consider how you will use it before you buy.
Cars built more than 40 years ago can be eligible for historic vehicle tax, and those not substantially changed may be exempt from the MOT, though an annual check is still sensible. Later cars are not yet old enough.
Classic insurance with an agreed value and limited mileage is widely available; tell the insurer about conversions and modifications.

Clubs and registers

Questions people ask

Where do Alfa Romeo Spiders rust?

The sills, floorpans, jacking points, front crossmember, chassis legs, spare wheel well, boot floor, wheel arches, door bottoms and valances. Plastic sill covers on Series 3 QV and Series 4 cars can hide the sills.

Which Alfa Spider should I buy?

It depends on what you want. The roundtail Series 1 is the purest shape, the Series 2 Kamm tail offers the widest engine choice and a larger boot, and the Series 4 is the best equipped and most usable. Buy on body condition first, then choose the version.

Should I buy a right-hand drive or left-hand drive Spider?

Factory RHD cars were built until 1978, so later RHD cars are conversions. A well documented conversion or original RHD car suits many UK buyers, but a good LHD car is perfectly usable given the Spider's small size. Condition matters more than steering position.

Which engine is best: 1300, 1600, 1750 or 2000?

The 1300 and 1600 are revvy but have less pull low down, the 2000 has the most torque, and many owners regard the 1750 as a good balance. Check the engine fitted is the right type for the car, as swaps are common.

Are Alfa Spiders reliable?

A well maintained Spider can be dependable. Problems usually come from neglected coolant, which leads to overheating and head gasket failure, worn synchromesh and seized rear calipers. Regular use and servicing make a big difference.

What is the difference between a Duetto and a Kamm tail Spider?

The Duetto and other Series 1 cars have a long rounded tail. From 1970 the Series 2 introduced the shorter cut-off Kamm tail, called Coda Tronca, which gives more boot space and continued until 1993.

Is an Alfa Spider a good first classic car?

It can be, if you buy a sound car and have it inspected by a specialist. Specialist and club support is good, but rust repair is expensive, so avoid project cars unless you are prepared for the work.

Sources

Checked 20 October 2026.

An independent guide. Not a valuation and not financial advice. Always inspect a car in person or have it inspected before you buy.